Month: September 2019

 

THE SEIKO ALPINIST

Seiko introduced the Alpinist wristwatch in 1961 with the intention of it becoming a reliable timepiece for Japanese mountain climbers and other sports enthusiasts alike. The production of this watch was important because it was the first real attempt at making a sports watch by Seiko. Seiko Alpinist watches started being produced in 1961 and were inspired by Yama-otoko which is Japanese for mountain men. Mountains cover much of the Japanese landscape and the mountain men that worked or spent time in the mountains during their free time were supposedly the inspiration of this line of Seiko watches. These men required excellent gear that could handle the rugged terrain and that they could depend on for accuracy. The Laurel Alpinist was the first of seven generations which was followed by the second generation known as the Champion 850 series, partly named for the 850 movement used.

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There was a 30-year span before the Alpinist name was used again by Seiko but in 1995 a third-generation model with an automatic hand-winding 4S15 calibre version was introduced, and popularly called the “Red Alpinist”. The fourth-generation Alpinist of 2003 is also known as the GMT, and is titanium cased, having a perpetual calendar and a quartz face; all of which had never been used in the Alpinist line before.  The Seiko Alpinist GMT Titanium Prospex HAQ Quartz is exceptionally rare and used the 8F56 movement.   It also has Alpinist in red on the dial. In 2006 the fifth generation Alpinist watches incorporated many features from previous generations with exception to the fourth generation. These watches all use the 6R15 movement which is an in-house movement created by Seiko. The SARB013 (Cream Dial), SARB015 (Black Dial) and SARB017 (Green Dial) immediately became popular and are still sought after by collectors. Out of the three models, the Green Dialed Alpinist is the most popular because of its unique colour. The sixth-generation model of the Alpinist also used the 6R15B movement and was introduced in August 2009.  The case shape changed from earlier models and is a variant of the SKX-series divers watch with the protected crown at the 4 o’clock position. Seiko Alpinist watches are exceptional for several reasons but most notably their craftsmanship and the rich history that goes along with the Alpinist line.

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HISTORY OF THE SEIKO ALPINIST

When it comes to the creme de la creme of Seiko, there is little debate over which is the summit of Seiko branding. The Laurel sub-brand is the oldest of the Seiko sub brands, and the 1913 Laurel watch did not even feature the word Seiko.  The brand Seiko itself first featured on watches in 1924.

The Alpinist is the third oldest Seiko sub brand.

SERIES INTRODUCTION: LAUREL ALPINIST

The watch that started it all is known as the “Laurel Alpinist,” which operated on a 17 jewel hand-wound movement and came in two colours, black and cream. The Laurel also came with a sturdy leather Bund strap, these straps are hard to come by because of the wear and tear that owners put them through. Other than the two dial colours, there is no difference between the two. Introduced in 1961 the Alpinist Laurel is the very first Seiko to bear the name Alpinist, and the distinctive type face has been used on all Seiko Alpinist models. The Laurel Alpinist has a sturdy stainless steel case topped with an acrylic crystal. The Laurel Alpinist comes in a guise of a rather non-sporty watch, and anyone familiar with the Laurel watches will immediately see the strong resemblance to the Laurel brand, yet there is something quite distinctive about this Alpinist. The circular 3-piece case has a waterproof screw-back with plain engravings. The case has a decent size of 35 mm, most of which is taken by the dial as the bezel around it is narrow. The dial comes in two 2 different colour schemes, black and cream, complemented by the minute markers in an unusual alternating pattern that forms an inner ring on the dial. The index markers at 3,6,9 and 12 are detailed triangular markers and were perhaps intended to reflect mountains.  The dial is marked Diashock 17j. The movement is marked Seikosha 17 Jewels and beats at a relaxed 18,000 bph, and is shock protected and complemented with the normal loud Seiko rattle as the wheels wind. The Dauphine style hands and index markers are inserted with lume. The legibility of this watch is excellent, thanks to the luminous large hour indexes that appear to be embossed rather than applied, but due to the passage of time, its efficacy has diminished more than somewhat. The case back is engraved SEIKO LAUREL ALPINIST 14041 STAINLESS STEEL.

The Seiko Marvel (introduced as a sub-brand in 1956, the first Seiko watch whose Diashock movement was designed “fully in-house from scratch”) had an almost identical movement, similar indices, and 14041 case, engraved Water Protected, and a Seiko Champion, 14041 case, engraved Shock Proof Dust and Water Protected.

There was also a Seiko Laurel J13029 with virtually identical movement, labelled as a Rainproof case.

Seiko Laurel J13029 and 14041

Laurel Alpinist , 14041 with one piece case back.

SEIKO ALPINIST CHAMPION

The second Seiko Alpinist model after the Laurel Alpinist was created under the Champion Series two years later, in 1963. This move is presumed, by collectors, to have been made in order to make the Champion model more competitive. There is a simple “Alpinist” engraving on the back of the case accompanied by “RAINPROOF” which made it appropriate for any mountain climber. The first Champion version sported a stainless steel case, and had a very unique face; the dial had a spun of silver-satin finish, with the hour markers embedded on a thick black radial ring around the minute chapter while the minute markers were pushed to the outer periphery of the dial. The 12 o’clock marker was the numeral 4 in style. Despite its fancy looking dial, this watch came with a plain case back stamped print as “RAIN PROOF”, and model number J13033. The movement was the 17J Seikosha movement used in the original Laurel Alpinist, and the dial is still marked Diashock 17j beneath the word Alpinist. The second hand has a D shaped lollipop tip.

Champion Alpinist , J13033

A rare “RAIN PROOF” Champion Alpinist with trapezoidal lumed indexes was also produced at this time.

Rare Champion Alpinists , J13033

The next Alpinist also came under the Champion series. In quick succession there were three Stainless Steel model types, the J13043, the J13049 and the J13079, all marked WATERPROOF on the dial, and case back.  The case back has the now-iconic mountain symbol with Alpinist engraved beneath for the J13043 and J13049 models and Alpinist 850 engraved beneath for the J13049 model.  The 17J Seikosha movement continued in the J13043 and J13049 models, but an automatic caliber 850 and later 851 rated at 18,000bph with Diashock protection was used in the J13079 model. Commonly all 3 models are called Champion 850 Alpinists.

Champion Alpinist, J13043

Seiko Champion Alpinist, J13049

One key feature was the continued use of the iconic dauphine hands which were used in all watches in the Champion series. Not only did the Champion series provide watch wearers and collectors a number of variations but the iconic mountain symbol on the back of the case originated here. From this point on, the vast majority of Alpinist watches have the mountain logo on the case ensuring authenticity.

From page 54 of “Museum of Japanese made watches” shows an Alpinist Champion 850 with caliber 850/851

The  J13079 Champion 850 Alpinist had 14,16,18,20 and 22-hour markers on the inside of the chapter ring, and 850 beneath Seiko Champion on the dial.  The case back is engraved Alpinist 850, and the inside of the case back is stamped CH85. The chronology of release of the variants is a blur so it assumed that the latest version is the one that is almost identical to the first version, only with these 24 hr markings inside of the minute chapter.

Champion 850 Alpinist, J13079

The transition in models led to 85899 models, marked STP on case back.

Stainless Steel Champion 850 Alpinist, 85899

A rare Stainless Steel version similar to the 85899 model also existed, with a J13079 case back.

Stainless Steel Champion 850 Alpinist, J13079

And below is a chrome plated version.

Caliber 851.  Case back reads STP 858990

A gold version similar to the above was released in 1964 and used the 851 movement and is also known as the “85899” because Seiko used the older 5-digit numbering system; this is, in fact, the model number of the Champion 850s. The third release comes in a special gold-plated case with a relatively different dial. This variant inherited the traditional look of the related non-alpinist Champion models. The dial is plain cream with gold-plated indexes and gold-plated lumed hands.  Rare black and grey dial versions exist.  On top of the indexes are tiny lumed spheres that give better legibility under low light conditions. This version used an etched case back, marked EGP or Electro Gold Plated inside and outside. As shown above, chrome-plated rather than gold-plated 85899 models also exist, with the etched case back marked STP both inside and outside.

1964 third release Alpinist Champion 850, 85899, gold (EGP) and chrome plated (STP) (bottom right).

The Dauphine style hands inserted with lume continued to be present on all the variants to keep the theme of the previous Alpinist generation.

A rare black dialed 85899

SEIKO RED ALPINIST

The next Alpinist was produced 30 years later under the Prospex line, which used the 4S15 caliber.   This caliber marked a renaissance in mechanical watches for Seiko which commenced in 1992.  The watch had a Sapplex crystal with a cyclops date window magnification lens. There were also two more distinct new features of the 1995 Prospex Alpinist, specifically the four o’clock crown and a unique inner bezel compass. These two new features were so popular they have been used from that point on in all Alpinist watches. Prospex Alpinists were only manufactured for two years but the popularity has only increased over the years and remains one of the “must haves” for collectors. They are commonly called the “Red Alpinist” because of the red wording on the dial. The 4S15 movement is “Hi-Beat” at 28,800 bph (8 bps). It is hackable and also supports handwinding.  This model was released with three choices of dial color – black, cream and emerald green. The signed crown at 3 is used for setting time and date. The crown at 4 is used to rotate the compass ring. There’s a mountain picture with the word “Alpinist” on the back case. Model numbers are SCVF005  Black  SCVF007 Cream and SCVF009 Green.

A catalogue showing the dial variations of the “Red Alpinist”

 

 

The SCVF007 Cream model is shown below.

ALPINIST 8F56

In 2003, a new Alpinist hit the market sporting the classic black and cream colored face and used the same inner bezel compass as the 1995 Prospex. The 2003 Alpinist is more commonly known as the 8F56. In fact, the Seiko Alpinist GMT Titanium Prospex High Accuracy Quartz (HAQ) Quartz SBCJ019 is one of the rarest models ever made. If you have the opportunity to buy this watch and you have the budget, do not hesitate because you will not be disappointed. It is a discontinued model and uses a highly revered 8F56 super-accurate quartz movement. The GMT, as it is also known by, has the ability adjust from one time zone to another by way of the hour hand that moves separately from the other hands. Other features include a 10-year lithium battery, a dual-direction rotating inner bezel compass, perpetual calendar and 10 bar water resistance. The GMT is not only a collector’s item; it is a more affordable watch in comparison to other Seiko collectibles which increases its popularity. Model numbers include, SBCJ019, SBCJ021, and SBCJ031. There are four different Alpinist-models which feature the cal.8F56: – There is a cream dial version with numeral dial that comes on a brown leather strap, the hands and markers are in gold colour covered with lume (ref. SBCJ031). – Or you can have two models on the titanium bracelet, one with cream dial that is completely covered with lume and has black hands and stick/triangle markers (ref. SBCJ021). Or one with black dial and silver hands and stick/triangle markers covered with lume (ref. SBCJ019). – There is also a limited edition Alpinist with a blue-ish dial, especially made for the SSASS (ref. SBCJ023) and limited to 500 pieces.

The rare SBCJ019

Image courtesy watchuseek forum user : ThomasH

SSASS LIMITED EDITION ALPINIST

There was a special edition released called the SSASS and there were only 500 of them made. This watch was created to pay tribute to Japanese-American mountaineer Ken Noguchi and the foundation he created known as Seven Summits Actions for Sustainable Society (SSASS). Noguchi created this project in order to raise awareness of the growing heaps of garbage that were being accumulated on the mountains that professional climbers and their teams were leaving behind. Since Noguchi and his team had climbed the seven highest peaks in the world, the foundation was well respected and an estimated 7-8 tons of garbage were collected from Mt. Everest and properly disposed of. This was a major breakthrough and continues to provide much-needed help in this growing problem. More recently, Noguchi donated 100,000 dollars to the families of the Sherpas whom were killed in avalanches or other accidents that happened on Everest. It is no wonder why the SSASS Alpinist is so highly revered among collectors; it is both wonderfully crafted and reminds people of the respect and admiration that is involved in mountaineering. Probably the most noticeable aspect of the SSASS is the aqua shade of blue used, which represents both the sea and the sky. Both the traditional 8F56 and the SSASS have the Alpinist mountain logo on the back of the case but the SSASS uses a limited edition numbering system.

 

Special edition Alpinist Prospex made for SSASS

SARB SERIES

A few years later, in 2006, the SARB013, SARB015 and SARB017 were introduced and became an instant success; especially the SARB017. Each identification number represents a different colour, cream, black and green. The SARB017 (green) model became by far the most popular because it is unique and can be worn in literally any situation, business or casual. The other two variations (especially the creme SARB013) are now much harder to find, possibly making them more valuable today. All of the 2006 models use an 6R15 Automatic Diashock 23 Jewel movement, provide 20 Bar water resistance and have gold plated hands and numbers. These three models are the longest-running models and continue to gain popularity because of their elegance and versatility. There are only a few subtle differences between the three watches. For example, both the cream and green versions use a more traditional hand system with a cathedral hour hand while the black version uses a more modern look which compliments the intense colouring.

Below is the SARB015 also known as the sharks tooth Alpinist.  The instructions for rotating the inner bezel using the crown at 4 o’clock are shown.     This is merely a more complicated way of finding direction by bisecting the angle between the hour hand pointing at the sun, and the 12 o’clock marker.

The most recent collectibles were introduced in 2009 and are known as the SARB059 (dark green dial, silver bezel) and SARB061(black dial and bezel). Although they have several classic looking characteristics, they have a slightly bigger watch face with a compass dial, sword style hands, and a new variation of emergency symbols located on the dial. The diameter has increased to 42mm. On these two variations, there is no “Alpinist” logo on the watch face, however the classic mountain stamp on the rear of the case. Instead, the two watches are labelled with Automatic, 23 Jewel, 20 Bar and use the 6R15 caliber movement.

The black dial ASARB061 below with emergency signals on the raised chapter ring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The SARB063 is another model introduced in July 2009.   This was the all-black Seiko Alpinist Takeshi Mizukoshi 500 limited model (named after the famous photographer) , and the model below is numbered 280/500.  It has Alpinist on the case back, but not the dial.  PVD finish.

This watch uses the same case as the SKX007, 009, 011 and other variants, collectively known as the SKX divers. The Alpinist is powered by the 6R15 movement whereas the SKX divers are powered by the 7S26 movement.

THE BLUE ALPINIST

SEIKO SPB089 6R15-04K0

In 2019 another Alpinist was released to the US market, the SPB089.

To commemorate the original Seiko Alpinist, which was first produced in 1959, Seiko in early 2019 released just 1,959 of a new blue Alpinist as a U.S. Limited Edition, with a dark blue sunburst dial.

It has a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a sapphire crystal and 200 meters of water resistance, and a vintage-style leather strap.

The movement is the  6R15 automatic movement.

The case back still features the Alpinist logo, and apart from the dial change and movement it is a faithful reproduction of  the SARB series.

 

2020 ALPINIST RELEASE

In 2020 another range of Alpinists will be released.  The prime model will hve a green dial.  The movement will be the 6R35 movement, and the power reserve has been upgraded to 70 hours,15 hours more than the 6R15 movement which had a 50 hour power reserve.

 

There is also a black dial stainless steel bracelet model SBDC087.

SEIKO ALPINIST RECOMMENDATIONS

This section will provide readers with an intensely detailed description of four Alpinist watches that vary in generation, rarity, condition and price. There will be a must-have watch, extremely rare, vintage and the holy grail. There are some things that you need to keep in mind like price points that may vary depending on the condition of the watch and that prices may differ depending on the seller.

THE ALPINIST LAUREL

Most watch enthusiasts that collect Alpinists are purists, meaning they always go back to the watch that started it all. With that being said, the Laurel Alpinist was the same exact design as the Seiko Laurel watches being produced during the same year except it was the first watch that was labeled with Alpinist logos that came with a special bund strap. These straps are rarely fully intact because of the number of years they have been used. It came in black and cream dials and used a simple 17 jewel hand wind movement and would easily be mistaken as a normal Laurel if it wasn’t for the Alpinist logo on the front of the dial.

Since this is the first Alpinist it is regarded as the holy grail of this line however, that term is rather subjective and a matter of opinion. The condition of these watches can be low grade considering they were manufactured in the early ’60s but they are dependable and still keep good time. Some of the more common models if fare condition can cost around 150-250 dollars whilst models in mint condition can fetch around 500 dollars.

THE ALPINIST CHAMPION 850

This watch would fall under the vintage label of recommendations because it is by far the most famous and well known of all Alpinist watches. It came with a 35mm gold or silver case and used an original Seikosha 17 jewel manual wind 850 movement. It is covered by a plastic crystal and has a brilliant silver dial with shiny gold hands and features. The two colors compliment each other very well. This model came with a GP back case with the Alpinist logo and serial number. It is important to keep in mind that from 1962 and 1963 a few different Champion Alpinist watches were created and had subtle differences. There were 17 jewel and 19 jewel models and also 850 or 851 movements used. This particular model uses the 17 jewels and 850 movement which indicates that it is one of the, if not the, earliest Champion Alpinist models.

Obviously these watches are rather rare and have to be purchased used, which is why it is extremely important to verify all of the information to ensure the quality and condition of the watch. Ask the previous owner for plenty of pictures and ask if it has been graded by a dealer. Minor condition issues will be present but this is what builds character. Minor scratching on the crystal should be present but make sure there is no major damage to the crystal. The gold case will most likely be faded with minor scratches but in some rare cases, you can find mint condition cases. The sword hands should be slightly worn yet functional. Make sure that it keeps accurate time and that it is rated by a professional. If you see one of these watches for sale, you can get them for fairly cheap, however, if the condition of the watch is pristine, be prepared to pay up to 500 dollars for it. The average price, however, is about 150 to 300 dollars because these watches are never seen in mint condition.

 ALPINIST “RED ALPINIST”

After a 30-year hiatus, the Alpinist was revived in 1995. This incarnation is the Alpinist 4S15-6000 or what is popularly known as the “Red Alpinist” because of the colour of the wording on the dial.. Despite being a sought after watch, it remained in production for only 2 years. This particular generation is powered by a chronometer-grade Cal. 4S15, an integrating auto-winding movement, hackable and with a manual winding mechanism. The 4S15 calibre is a redesignated 52 calibre, the 5246 previously used in the 1971 King Seiko chronometer produced in the Daini Seikosha factory.  It was redesignated in 1992 when a renaissance in mechanical watches commenced. The 4S15-6000 has a 38mm stainless steel case with a bulky case protector which adds a reasonably hefty look to the watch. Seiko brought a contemporary look to the new Alpinist, leaving the vintage face behind. The dial comes in three colour variations, the SCVF005 with a black dial, the SCVF007 in cream, and the SCVF009 in green.

The first thing that catches your eye is the red “Alpinist” marking on the dial. The second is the cyclops magnification lens used on the date display, and the third is the luminous cathedral hands which are only present in this generation.  The hour markers in numerals and triangles are always neatly executed in the Seiko tradition. On top of the hour markers are luminous spheres, in this case, the dial legible is under all light conditions. The crown is recessed at 3 o’clock while the crown for the inner compass rests at 4 o’clock, in a similar fashion to the two succeeding generations.  The rear of the case is imprinted with the Alpinist logo and declares a 200m water resistance.

4S15 Sports 200 version, from 1996. This version is identical bar the word ‘Alpinist’ on the dial and has a Seiko Tsunami case back.  It was produced for South-East Asian markets in the mid-1990’s and is rarer than the Alpinist version.

ALPINIST PROSPEX

This is one of the most desirable Alpinist watches. It has all bells and whistles and has a sophisticated but elegant look to it that makes it a versatile watch that can be worn on any occasion. Combine all of this to its rarity and you have a collector’s dream which comes at a price. The case and double lock bracelet are titanium that uses the rare 8F56 caliber movement. The case dimensions consist of a 38.5mm width and a 11.5mm thickness. The GMT is water-resistant, has a lithium battery with 10-year longevity and a crystal oscillator. Make sure that the watch comes with its original box, leather strap, manuals and tags. This watch is rarely seen on the market so if you get the chance to buy this watch and all of the parts are functioning buy it. The only downfall to this model is that it can cost you a pretty penny. This watch can fetch at least 1000 dollars.

Ref. SBCJ019 with black dial, Ref. SBCJ031 with luminous cream dial, Ref. SBCJ023 with blue dial limited edition made for SASS and Ref. SBCJ031 with cream dial

ALPINIST DIASHOCK

The Seiko Alpinist 6R15-00E0, released in 2006, is a men’s automatic watch with a 38mm by 11mm stainless steel case that also proclaims water resistance to 200m depth. It is protected by a sapphire crystal that will look pristine years down the line when the rest of the watch may be showing its age. The watch wears bigger than its actual size, thanks to its relative thickness and protruding crown protector. It features a screw-down crown with a deeply machined “S” marks the main crown, and a pressed-in intrusion marks the compass crown at the bottom, which smoothly operates the internal chapter ring. Ticking away inside is the 6R15 caliber self-winding mechanical movement that can be manually wound and hacked and ticks 6 times per second which gives the second hand a smoother movement.  The watch carries a solid case back with the mountain Alpinist logo machined into it. In particular, the brushed finished on the rear of the case contrasts with the polished screw-in case back. The 6R15-00E0 was an instant hit upon its release, owing it to its classic elegance. Amongst the three variants, the SARB017 possesses the most striking feature. It is important to note that the SARB013 has almost identical features with the SARB017, but what sets these two variants apart is the iridescent sunburst green dial on the SARB017; the shade of the dial changes subtly as the light catches it, coupled with its similarly reflective applied gold numerals and triangles. In addition, on top of each numeral is a highly luminous sphere of quality Seiko lume, making the watch readable under low light and pitch black conditions. One of the distinguishing traits of the SARB017, similar to the  SARB013, is the luminous cathedral hands which suite the dial watch well and contributes to the overall old-world-explorer look to it.

 

The SARB015 had a very short production run making it quite rare compared to other Seiko watches of this era. This variation has a black dial with the date window seated at 4 o’clock, in contrast to the 3 o’clock date placement of the other two watches giving it a very distinctive character. Much less, this watch has inherited traits from the earlier Alpinist models. Namely the dauphine hands together with its triangle markers. As can be seen, the SARB015 gives off an elegant look enough to accompany you to most casual occasions whilst retaining its sporty nature.

The Alpinist brand possesses a history. It has been developed over the years and throughout has retained its identity without straying too far from the first iterations to mid-2000s. However, in 2009, Seiko decided to more vividly differentiate its newest innovations from the previous ones, and as a result: SARB059, SARB061 and SARB063 were added to the Alpinist realm. The watch is powered by the 6R15 housed inside a 42mm case which is said to be the same of the iconic SKX007, thus giving the watch a durable look. The case is finely polished on all sides, rated at 200m water resistance, and has a robust case back. The dial elements of the watch do not have reflective properties present on the 2006 models. However, the black matte base has an attractive emerald undertone as the light strikes it. The bezel is also dissimilar from the traditional Alpinist, as it features beveled edges giving the watch two-scale rings: the flat top of the bezel insert is embossed with an elapsed-time scale, and on the banks is a smaller compass scale. To complete the overall hybrid nature, it features a chapter ring on the dial which is quite unobtrusive as it is printed with very small ground to air emergency codes. The three variants have identical components; the silver-outlined hands, minute bars, and black-framed hands, all of which are luminous.

If you are buying it used, there is no reason to purchase anything other than a mint condition watch because there are plenty out there on the market. The 6R15-00E models should cost around 350 to 450 dollars depending on condition and the year that it was crafted. Also keep in mind that you should locate a nearby watch service to make repairs and provide routine maintenance, unless you are capable of doing this yourself.

MOVEMENTS

MANUFACTURER	SEIKO	SEIKO	SEIKO	SEIKO	SEIKO
Movement		Cal. 851	Cal. 6R15B	Cal. 8F56A	Cal. 4S15A
Picture
Production Run	1961-1963	1963- mid 60s	1995
Casing Diameter			27 mm	26.4 mm	25.6 mm
Maximum Height			5.25 mm	4.8 mm	4.17 mm
No. of Functional Jewels	17 jewels	17 jewels	23 jewels	4 jewels	25 jewels
Vibrations per hour	18, 000 bph	18, 000 bph	21, 600 bph		28, 800 bph
Mainspring dimensions
Markings	SEIKOSHA 17 JEWELS	SEIKOSHA 17 JEWELS 851	SEIKO TIME CORP. 6R15B TWENTY-THREE JEWELS		SEIKO TIME CORP. 4S15A
Shock Resistant	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Automatic winding	No	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Instant setting for day & date	No	No	Yes	Yes	Yes
Bilingual for day of week	No	No

CONCLUSION

The great thing about the Alpinist brand is that there is something for every collector. There are seven generations that all look very different from one another but have similar features. These watches can be used by adventurers and businessmen alike and can be worn to casual or professional outings. Be warned that the moment you purchase your first Alpinist, you may find yourself looking for the next Alpinist to add to your collection.

References:

1. Yeoman, Seiko Alpinist – Tradition, Concept, Innovation, Blog post 2006
2. Hakalugi, Seiko SBCJ021 Alpinist, Blog post 2006
3. timekeeper.co.nz user Don, Yamaotoko in Aotearoa: Seiko 4S15 Alpinist, Forum post 2010
4. thewatchsite user lexcaliber, Alpinists unite – showcase yours, Forum post 2013
5. thewatchsite user funkster, Calling all Alpinists, Forum post 2013
6. himawari.sakura.net, Champion 850 Alpinist, Online retailer
7. timezone user Henk Hoving, Review: Seiko Alpinist ref. SBCJ019, Forum post 2006
8. timekeeper user peter44, Seiko Champion 850, Forum post 2010
9. Tito Ogami, Laurel Seiko Alpinist, Blog post 2015
10. wristwatch, Seiko Alpinist SARB013, SARB015 and SARB017, Forum post 2007
11. watchusseek user flawless51, Seiko Alpinist SARB017 review, Forum post 2009
12. watch-tanaka, Seiko watches, Online retailer
13. Musingsofawatchaddict, Opening a Cream 4S15 Alpinist (4S15-6000), Blog post 2015
14. lionseek, Seiko Alpinist 4S15 Model SCVF005 (Black Dial), Online retailer
15. jam&watch, Seiko Alpinist SCVF007 (Hi-Beat), Blog post 2014
16. network54 user cobrajet25, Check out this new alpinist…..wow, Blog post 2003
17. horarium, Seiko SCVF005 Mechanical Sports, Online retailer
18. wristsushi user Thomas, WRUW, Blog post 2015
19. e-bigmoon, SEIKO Seiko Alpinist-automatic SCVF005, Online retailer
20. thewatchsite user Librarian1, Seiko Branding Dictionary, Blog post 2010
21. network54 user jayhawk, Got a new Marvel and some Laurel musings, Blog post 2007
22. hinomatico, SEIKO (Seiko) LAUREL Alpinist ( Laurel alpinist ) 17 stone white dial
23. seikoholics user Ninja01, Seiko – Champion [hand-wind],  Blog post 2011
24. thewatchsite user reckness, FS: Rare Seiko Red Alpinist 4S15-6000 Black Dial SCVF005 Hi-Beat Org Bracelet Re $399, Blog post 2015
25. rakuten, セイコー アルピニスト 4S15 SEKO Alpinist, Online retailer

 

The 1960s saw many in the watch industry looking to capitalise on increased demand for automatic watches. In 1969, Seiko delivered by introducing what was arguably the world’s first automatic chronograph, the Seiko 6139. This article focuses on its earliest incarnations, the 6139-600X. A watch often called the “Speed-Timer”. Seiko printed the term “Speed-Timer” on many of its early chronographs destined for the Japanese market, indicating the more advanced features, such as a thirty-minute chronograph recorder, a day and date indicator, and a tachymeter scale. Production of the Seiko 6139 line up ended sometime in 1978, but are still readily available today. The 6139-600X series is quickly becoming very collectable pieces thanks to a combination of great design and storied history. The 600X has two big claims to fame, as both a contender for the world’s first automatic chronograph and as the first chronograph worn in space.

THE WORLD’S FIRST AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH

There is still debate in terms of which watch holds claim to the title of world’s first automatic chronograph, but really, it all boils down to which type of “first” you would consider most appropriate. Back in 1969, several big names were competing for the title of the world’s first automatic chronograph. The first watch company to lay claim to the title was Zenith, who introduced their first prototypes on January 10, 1969. The company even named their automatic chronograph the “El Primero” or “The First” in Spanish. The second contender was a collective of watchmakers, which could be termed the Chronomatic group, namely Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton-Buren. The companies created a mutually beneficial partnership and worked together in developing their automatic chronograph. The group laid claim to the title by introducing the Chronomatic prototypes on March 3, 1969, in a much-highlighted press event. The Chronomatic group was also the first to show several models of pre-production samples during the Basel Fair in April of 1969, a more impressive showing when compared to Zenith, who had fewer samples during the same event. Last but not least, Seiko lays claim to the title by being the first to start serial production of their 6139 “Speed Timer” in May 1969. These early watches were to be released to the Japanese market only. On the other hand, the Chronomatic group started production and release to the world’s retail markets in June or July of 1969, and Zenith’s chronograph was released into the wider world market in October 1969. Some serial numbers of the earliest Seiko 6139s indicate a production date of March 1969 or even as early as February 1969, but it is unclear if these are samples or were the first ones intended for the Japanese market.

To sum it up, Zenith may have been the first to announce the development of the first automatic chronograph, but Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton-Buren were the first to release their automatic chronograph to major retail markets. However, when it comes to who first achieved serial production of the automatic chronograph, Seiko may have quietly beaten both, by releasing to the Japanese market in May 1969.

From left to right: Zenith ad from 1969; Heuer vintage ad; Seiko 1969 catalog

THE FIRST CHRONOGRAPH IN SPACE

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Col. Pogue wearing his Pogue Seiko
Image by Heritage Auctions

Aside from being the first automatic chronograph to achieve serial production, the Seiko 6139 was also the first automatic chronograph in space. This honor used to be bestowed upon Sinn 140 worn by a German astronaut named Reinhard Furrer during the Spacelab D1 mission in 1985. It was only in 2007 that it was established that Col. Pogue wore a 6139-6002 during the NASA Skylab 4 mission which took place in 1973. The official watch to be used for the Skylab 4 Mission was the Omega Speedmaster Professional, but it was only issued shortly before the actual launch. Needing a watch to use during his pre-flight training, Col. Pogue bought a 6139-6002 from PX at Ellington AFB Exchange. He utilized it to time engine burns during the course of his training, which lasted for more than six months. Due to his familiarity with the 6002, Col. Pogue launched into space on Nov. 16, 1973, with the piece tucked in his suit leg pocket. For the length of the mission, he wore it on his left arm alongside the NASA certified Omega Speedmaster on his other arm. As Col. Pogue had been using the 6002 during the course of his training and found it very handy, he did not attempt to get official approval from NASA to carry it with him into space. The astronaut, however, stated that he did not wear the piece during the EVA Spacewalk. The 6002 came back with Col. Pogue on February 8, 1974, when the mission ended. Since this fact was discovered, the yellow dial with the yellow indicator ring variation of the 6002 has been commonly termed as a “Pogue”.

THE BEZELS

Aside from being the first automatic chronograph in space, the 6139-600X series also has another popular identifying factor, it’s outer bezel. Because of its red and blue color, the fixed outer bezel has been commonly referred to as the “Pepsi” bezel. The “Pepsi” bezel displays the tachymeter scale and has remained a consistent feature throughout the years of production of the 600X series.. The 600X also has a rotating indicator ring, or what is sometimes called an inner bezel. It is made of plastic with markings for 60 minutes. The most common colors can be seen in the Seiko catalog scan below. These are the blue indicator rings for the blue dials and yellow indicator rings for the yellow dials. Two other variations pop up from time to time. They are the white and black indicator rings.

1969 Seiko Catalog

In some instances, pieces can be found with white indicator rings; however, it is likely that these are simply yellow indicator rings that have discolored over time due to UV exposure. There is little evidence these white indicator rings are a genuine release and should probably be avoided. There is also a far less common black indicator ring, which can be usually found with a silver dial. There are some who doubt the authenticity of the black indicator ring, but enough evidence is present to suggest these were an official release.

A 6139-6000 silver dial 1969 and a 6139-6002 with yellow dial and black indicator ring
Left image by LINCE via RPTcom; Right image by hal0eight via Wrist Sushi and Vintage Time Australia

THE DIALS

There are three different colours for the dials, yellow, blue, and silver with three variations for each colour. The markings on the dial, or lack thereof, depend on the year of its release. Since the series’ introduction, the label on the dial by the 12 o’clock mark has always been “Chronograph Automatic” or just “Automatic”, for non-JDM(Japanese domestic market) models. As for the words on the 9 o’clock mark, it reads “Water 70M Proof” from its release until the earlier part of 1970. These are commonly referred to as “proof models” or “proof dials” and tend to be more desirable to collectors.

After this time, the markings changed to “Water 70M Resist”. This shift was due to a law passed in 1968 that required manufacturers to change the markings on the watches they produce to water-resistant. The change across all manufacturers was not instantaneous. Seiko started employing this from 1970 and finished changing the markings on most of their models by 1971. Sometime during the latter part of 1972, the company also removed the marking stating “Water 70M Resist” but retained the marking “Water Resistant” on the case back.

From left to right: “Proof” dial, “Resist” dial, and dial with no markings

The silver dialed variation is by far the rarest dial and is even more seldomly seen with a “proof” variation. There are only a few instances of photographed silver “proof” dials.

A silver “Proof”dial from 1969 and a silver “Resist” dial from 1971
Left image by LINCE via RPTcom

All in all, there are three dial colors with three variations, the “proof”, “resist”, and those with no markings,  amounting to nine verified dial combinations.

Nine dial variations for the Seiko 613-600X throughout its production

JDM DIAL VARIATIONS

In addition to the standard models listed above, watches that were intended for the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) only had a few additional markings. The markings on the dial would say “Speed-Timer” at the 12 o’clock mark, and “5 Sports Water 70 Proof” at the 9 o’clock mark for those produced between 1969 and 1975. After this period, the JDM dials produced would bear the markings “5 Sports” on the 12 o’clock mark and “Speed-Timer” on the 9 o’clock mark.

Early JDM 6139-6000 dial and New JDM 6139-600X dial

THE CASE

The 6139-600X series comes in a stainless steel Screwback case with square corners that measures 40mm in diameter. The case back houses the model number and serial number for the piece. If you would like to determine the date of production, you only need to check the first two digits of the serial number which tells you the year and month of production respectively. (Quartzimodo’s Time Journal has a very helpful article about determining the date of production of a Seiko watch.)

The case back also features the markings “Waterproof” and “Water Resistant”, which is also a good indicator of its date of production. Those that contain the markings “Waterproof” were produced from 1969 to February of 1970. The pieces produced after this time would contain the markings “Water Resist” or “Water Resistant” due to Seiko complying with the mandate that watches manufacturers change their markings to reflect water resistant. It is estimated that the “Water Resist” case backs were used until April or May of 1970 before the company shifted to using “Water Resistant” markings on their case backs.

Left to right: “Waterproof” from ‘69, “Water Resistant” from ‘72, and a later version of the “Water Resistant” from ‘77.

Another variation that the case for the series went through is the notch on the side by the crown. The notched case was used for the series from 1969 to, it seems, the latter part of 1970 or early 1971. From then on until the end of its production, 6139s have featured the non-notched case. This is the reason why notched cases tend to be more desirable to most collectors.

Notched 6139-6000 from April 1969 and non-notched 6139-6005 from 1978

It is hard to pinpoint the exact date when the company transitioned to using the non-notched case as during the year of 1970, there were some pieces that had a notched case but featured the markings “Water Resist” on its case back.

Ad from 1970 (left photo), Water Resist notched case from March 1970 (middle and right photo)
Middle and right image by SeikoPsycho2 via SCWF

The working theory is that the company used the leftover notched cases from the time they stopped producing until finally running out in late 1970 or early 1971.  A notched case “Waterproof” model from April 1970 also indicates that the left over case backs were also utilised.

THE 6139 BRACELET

There are four known variations for the bracelets of the 6139-600X series.  The first one being the H-link bracelet with straight ends, which was used on the 6139-600X series from its introduction until 1973. After this period, the H-link bracelet with tapered ends was used until the end of production. Another variation is what is commonly termed as the Stelux bracelet. It is unsure when this particular type was used, but is usually seen combined with the silver dial. The last variation is those seen for the versions intended for the Japanese market, or what is commonly referred to as “JDM bracelets”. This variation was used for the JDM models all throughout its production.

Straight H-link; Tapered H-link; Stelux bracelet; JDM bracelet

THE MOVEMENT

There were two types of movement used for the 6139s and are not specific to the 6139-600X series. The first one is the 6139A, which was used from 1969 to sometime in 1970 to 1971.he second one is the 6139B, which replaced the 6139A and was used until the end of production. Most of the differences can be found on the parts used for the 6139B series, such as the center chronograph wheel, which was made to be more robust. The “B” movement was also said to have a simplified chronograph bridge.

Manufacturer:	Seiko	Seiko
Movement:	6139A	6139B
Picture
Production Run:	1969 -1970 / 1971	1970 / 1971 -end of production
Casing Diameter:	27 mm	27 mm
Maximum Height:	6.65 mm	7.1 mm
No. of Functional Jewels:	17J / 21J	17J / 21J
Vibrations per hour:	21, 600	21, 600
Mainspring dimensions:	L 43.5 mm H 1.01mm Thickness .10mm	L 43.5 mm H 1.01mm Thickness .10mm
Markings:	6139A 21 JEWELS / 6139A 17 JEWELS	6139B 21 JEWELS / 6139B 17 JEWELS
Shock Resistant (Diashock):	Yes	Yes
Automatic winding:	Yes	Yes
Instant setting  for day & date:	Yes	Yes
Bilingual for day of week:	Yes	Yes

 

There are 2 versions for each of the movements, 21J and 17J, signifying the number of jewels used for each one. The 21J movements can be only be found in the JDM version of the series, and the 17J movements can be found in the non-JDM versions.

The series has had several incarnations and variations throughout its years of production.

THE EXECUTIONS

There are six possible references for the 600X series. These are: 6139-6000, 6139-6001, 6139-6002, 6139-6005, 6139-6007, and the 6139-6009. The differences in the last digit of the model numbers only signify its intended region of release. The 6139-6000 seem to correspond to those intended for the Japanese market. The 6139-6005 and 6139-6009 are those intended for North America.

All in all, with the six possible references, 15 possible dial variations for both JDM and non-JDM versions, 3 colors of inner rings, 2 cases, 3 case backs, 2 types of movements, and 4 possible bracelets, there is a huge array of possible combinations. However, bear in mind that only the JDM versions have the “Speed-Timer” dial, 21J movements, and the fourth type of bracelet, or what is commonly known as the “JDM bracelet”.

For the 6139-600X series, there could well over be 70 variations for the non-JDM versions and 18 for the JDM versions. Unfortunately, this figure cannot be ascertained as it is yet unclear which incarnations were available for each region the series was released.

RECOMMENDED SEIKO 6139-600X

When trying to acquire a 6139-600X, it is typically best to look for models in as good a condition as possible. Good examples will hopefully require little or no restoration. It is best to always look for the signs of early productions, such as notched cases, the 6139A movement, and “Proof” or “Resist” markings. When looking at a piece, especially ones being sold online, it’s best to always look for pictures bearing the serial number to determine the year of production.

To help you get started, here are some popular variations of the series that you may want to ruminate on:

THE PLACE TO START

When looking for a 6139-600X, try to look for one with a “proof” dial and a notched case. These are sure signs of early production and are more desirable for collectors. However, since these features are only available on early models, it is harder to find pieces that are in good condition. A great place to look is Ebay.com and sales corners on watch forum websites.

A Seiko 6139-6000 with “proof” dial and notched case from April 1969

Prices for those with notched cases and “proof” dials start at around $200 but vary greatly depending on its condition. Pieces that are in near mint condition can be had for $350 and up.

Tip: Try to also look for poorly advertised Seikos. Some posts are not very descriptive or may not even contain a model number as those who sell them may not be familiar with the series. The best clue would be the posted pictures. Like they say, patience is a virtue.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Another variation that is sought after is the elusive silver-dialed 6139-600X. This particular incarnation is only usually found with a “Resist” dial or a dial with no markings. These silver dialed versions can also be found online and priced around $350.

6139-6002 silver dial with “resist” markings

THE HIGH END

One of the rarest 6139-600X pieces that can be found are the early JDM or “Speed-Timer” models with the markings “5 Sports Water 70 Proof” on the dial by the 9 o’clock mark. These are very desirable pieces for collectors since these are the first ones produced by Seiko intended for the Japanese market. The early JDM versions are also very hard to acquire, and some are said to have serial numbers that indicate a production date of February or March 1969. Prices for this version start at $320 but can go up to $550, or maybe even more, depending on its condition.

6139-6000 Early JDM from 1969

THE GRAIL

Everyone has their own grail, but for us, it would be a mint example of the 6139-6002 worn by Col. Pogue during the NASA Mission, the first automatic chronograph in space. Col. Pogue bought the piece for $71 on June 13, 1972, and was auctioned off in 2008 for $5,975. The proceeds from the auction went to the Astronaut Scholarship Foundation.

6139-6002 worn by William Pogue during NASA Skylab 4 mission
Image by Heritage Auctions

Good examples of this watch are still readily available. As a collector you can can still find your own “Pogue” 6139-6002 without much trouble. A yellow dialled non-notched 6002 can still be bought today, some even in mint condition, but can fetch quite a price as it is very in demand.

Prices range from $450 up to $1000 for those in near mint. Nice examples but with small defects, such as discoloured rings and replaced bands, can be had for significantly less.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR AND WHAT TO AVOID?

When looking for a 6139-600X, remember that the series are decades old, and as such there are plenty of pieces out there that are franken or may have been modified. In the section below, we will outline common issues or aspects to look at when purchasing your own 6139-600X:

Dial and Bezels: Check for any sign of corrosion, modifications, and replacement parts.

*Remember that there are only a number of known combinations for the dials and indicator rings. Other colors may just be products of restorations or might be aftermarket parts. Specifically, watch out for pieces that have the white indicator ring as this is a sign that it is heavily faded or might have been repainted.

Aftermarket white indicator ring

*The outer bezel only comes in blue and red for these series and is fixed. There are sticker versions of the outer bezel available, so watch out for these when looking for a 600X to purchase.

*Watch out for any corrosion on the dial, especially on the sub-dial of the piece, as this is where it usually starts.

*Be careful of aftermarket dials when purchasing your piece. Some signs to watch out for are the marks on the sub dial register. These should touch the very edge of the sub register ring. Also, the lume on the dial should have a sharp edge and not a rounded one.

Left: Sub-dial marks do not come to the age and lume has rounded edges.
Right: The original dial’s markings/indicators for the sub-dial come to the very edge. The lume also has a sharper edge.

 Bracelets: Watch out for any missing links on the bracelet of the 600X that you aim to purchase. Also, remember that these series usually come with the H-link straight/tapered style, the Stelux bracelet, and the JDM bracelet. Be wary of replacement bracelets, especially if you are keen on originality.

An aftermarket bracelet sold online

Case and Movement: Be on the lookout for corrosion in the case and movement of the 600X you intend to purchase. Also, ensure that the markings, model, and serial number of the case are consistent with the other parts of the piece.

Stem, Crown, and Gaskets: Be wary of aftermarket or reproduction stems as this can cause damage to the movement of the piece. The gaskets (black rubber rings) may also need to be replaced. These can become sticky through time and might also affect the water-resistance of the piece.

A genuine stem and crown for a 6139-600X (Left) and an aftermarket stem and crown with gasket (Right)
Left image by hal0eight via Wrist Sushi and Vintage Time Australia

For more information regarding the variations and buying Seiko 6139s, please also visitHOW TO BUY A SEIKO 6139-600x CHRONOGRAPH – A Collector’s Buying Guide by Ty Maitland, 1970’s Seiko 6139-600X Chronograph Variations Review by SeikoPsycho2 from watchuseek, and The Definitive 6139-600x Buyer’s Guide thread from the Wrist Sushi forum.

 

From The Spring Bar Store:

 

References:

1. Jeffrey Stein, “Project 99-The Race to Develop the World’s First Automatic Chronograph”, Online guide article, 2008
2. The Seikoholics Forums users Ninja01 and StartSomething, “JDM Speedtimer 6138/6139 Variant Question“, Forum post, 2012
3. Network54 user Kelly M. Rayburn, “My 6139-6005 on Stelux bracelet. . .”, Forum post, 2009
4. SCWF users SeikoPsycho2, aladin_sane, and haloeight, “Need some 6139 expertise!”, Forum post, 2012
5. Wrist Sushi users seikoholic and hal0eight, “Nothing like some documentation – look for the 6139-6000“, Forum post, 2014
6. Ranfft Watches, “ Seiko 6139A” and “Seiko 6139B”,Auction site,(n.d)
7. SCWF user haloeight, “Re: Pogue inner bezel question”, Forum post, 2011
8. Network54 user Isthmus, “unresolved mystery about 6139 resist dial ?“, Forum post, 2008
9. Evan Yeung, “Revisiting An Icon – The Seiko Speedtimer”, Online magazine article, 2012
10. Reddit user Seikoholic, “[Seiko 6139-6005 “Resist”] – aka “Pogue” – 80+ days in orbit, first automatic chronograph in space, and the reason that I started collecting Seikos“, Reddit post, 2013
11. Felix Scholz, “IN-DEPTH: Your Vintage Seiko Chronograph Buying Guide”, Online magazine article, 2012
12. Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2, “1970’s Seiko 6139-600X Chronograph Variations Review”, Forum post, 2009
13. Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2 “6139-60XX How to spot an Aftermarket Dial”, Forum post, 2014
14. Quartzimodo Admin, “How to tell when your Seiko watch was made (Part 1)“, Blog post, 2010
15. Arne Rasmussen, “Seiko 6139 (Skylab 4 in 1973)“, Blog post, 2013
16. Timezone.com user rileyn p “I don’t know how else it can be said…”, Forum post, 2008
17. James Lamdin, “The “Colonel Pogue” Seiko 6139“. DREAMCHRONO, Blog post, 2013
18. Chris Lang “My First Mechanical Chronograph is the World’s First Automatic Chronograph: Seiko 6139“, Blog post, 2014
19. SCWF user Librarian2, “Seiko Calibers Technical/Repair Manuals”, Forum post, 2010
20. Watchuseek user Isthmus. “Difference Between “Water Proof” & “Water Resist”….”, Forum post, 2008
21. Ty Maitland reposted by Watchuseek user Isthmus, “HOW TO BUY A SEIKO 6139-600x CHRONOGRAPH – A Collector’s Buying Guide”, Forum post, 2008
22. SCWF user Isthmus, “SEIKO VINTAGE CATALOGS – 1960s – 1980s”, Forum post, 2011
23. Matt Boston, “Top 10 Technically Important Mechanical Wrist Watches“, Blog post, 2013
24. Blake Buettner, “Just Because: Seiko 6139, The Other First Automatic Chronograph“, Online magazine article, 2011
25. Don, “The Rarest Chronograph Movement of Seiko ca.60s/70s“, Blog post, 2010
26. Watch wiki, “Seiko 6139“, Web encyclopedia, 2014
27. WristSushi user hal0eight, “The Definitive 6139-600x Buyer’s Guide“, Forum post, 2014
28. SCWF user Spencer PK, “Re: History of the 6139 – Photo Database Accurate?“, Forum post, 2012
29. Network54 user Cobrajet25, “According to Seiko at least, there is no difference between these watches.>“, Forum post, 2004
30. SCWF users cobrajet25 and LINCE, “6139-600x silver-dialed models…“, Forum post, 2011
31. Network54 user Cobrajet25, “Yes, it is. The really early ones>”, Forum post, 2005
32. SCWF users martback and SeikoPsycho2, “6139-600X dating and identification clues ?“, Forum post, 2013
33. Network54 user swedefreak and Cobrajet25, “6139-600X variations“, Forum post, 2009
34. SCWF user Spencer PK, “Re: 6139- Movement: 17 vs 21 Jewels”, Forum post, 2013
35. SCWF user Spencer PK, “Re: 6139A vs 6139B parts interchange”, Forum post, 2010
36. SCWF user Spencer PK, “Re: A question for the 6139-600X experts….”, Forum post, 2013
37. Watchuseek user SeikoPsycho2, “Re: Does this Speedtimer look original?”, Forum post, 2011
38. SCWF user cobrajet25, “Re: The gold-dialed 6139-600x with a black indicator ring… any proof, ever?”, Forum post, 2012
39. SCWF user Daver, “Seiko 6139B mainspring“, Forum post, 2014
40. Network 54 user Don, “Right there in the search engine. For example:”, Forum post, 2008
41. SCWF users cobrajet25 and Technoman, “6139 dial variations – relative rarities?“, Forum post, 2010
42. Network54 user Cobrajet25, “Not qute…from what I have seen.>“, Forum post, 2009
43. Network 54 users Cobrajet25 and tyes, “Earliest 6139 found #93509X = Mar 1969”, Forum post, 2008
44. Network54 user Cobrajet25, “Your dial is fine…>>“, Forum post, 2008

GRAND SEIKO THE WORLD’S BEST

The original Grand Seiko watch and the line of watches that followed would be a game-changer for the Japanese watchmaker. The Grand Seiko range would prove that Seiko was capable of producing quality watches that could compete with and even exceed those produced by Swiss watch manufacturers.

Before the introduction of Grand Seiko, high-end watch consumers did not think highly of the company despite Seiko producing quality watches and bagging awards.[1] The Seiko  Crown and Chronos movements both were at the peak of Japanese technology, but the Grand Seiko turned it from an inferior watch manufacturer to a major player in the luxury watch market.

The “grand” moniker would be significant for this change. It mirrored the company’s goal of creating “the best luxury watch in the world.” In 1960, the company’s Suwa division was tasked to create the best watch it could possibly make at that time.[1]

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GRAND SEIKO AT THE OLYMPICS

The timing of the Grand Seiko’s introduction to the market also proved crucial to its success. The Grand Seiko Chronometer Cal. 5722 was introduced in 1964, the year Tokyo hosted the 18th Olympiad.[2]

Seiko served as the event’s official timer. The company brought simple countdown chronographs with Cal 5718A movements and mono-pusher chronographs with Cal 5717 and Cal 5719 movements.[3]

Because of its successful participation at the Olympics, Seiko finally gained international respect and credibility.

Seiko is the official timer of the 1964 Olympics

VYING FOR HIGHEST ACCURACY

The 1964 Olympic Games was only the beginning of Seiko’s quest to leave a permanent mark on the high-end watch market. The company entered the Grand Seiko into the Neuchatel chronometer testing from the year the watch was released until the trials ended.[1] The Neuchatel observatory rated and ranked the movements that it tested, making it possible to see which ones were most accurate.

When Seiko first joined the international competition, it placed 144th. Three years later, in 1967, Seiko moved into the top 10. When the testing stopped in 1968, Seiko was running for first place. Rumor has it the testing ended so Neuchatel could avoid declaring Seiko as the winner in the Swiss chronometer competition. [1]

Undeterred, Seiko joined the equivalent Geneva competition in its quest to win first place. This time around, it wasn’t disappointed. Its Grand Seiko watches ranked 4th to 10th places, making the line’s movements among the most accurate in the world.[1]

GRAND SEIKO PRODUCTION  

Production of the Grand Seiko line ran for 12 years.  The first Grand Seiko was produced on December 18th 1960 while the last one was made in 1972.[4]

The Suwa Seikosha division produced most of the Grand Seiko watches, except for the 44GS, 45GS, and 45GS VFA movements, which were created by its Daini Seikosha division. The two companies were Seiko’s subsidiaries which produced one brand to improve technology and hedge risk amid tough competition. If one experienced problems in production, the other would simply increase production. Suwa Seikosha became Seiko Epson Corporation, while Daini Seikosha became Seiko Instruments Inc.[5]

Seiko started manufacturing its first-generation Grand Seiko 3180 model in December 1960 at the company’s Suwa factory in Nagano prefecture in central Japan.[4] A total of 36,000 units of the first generation watch were created.

The 57GS movement followed in 1963 with 81,000 units manufactured.[5]

Afterwards, Seiko produced the 44GS and 62GS movements. Released in December 1967, Seiko created 36,000 units of the 61GS line.[6] This was followed by the 45GS, 45GS VFA, 19GS, and 19GS VFA movements from 1968 toward 1970. Finally, Seiko released the last model in this line, a mechanical 56GS, in 1972. [4]

DESIGN

Seiko’s design concept for the Grand Seiko was to create the “ideal watch,” which meant “nothing less than the best luxury watch in the world.”[7, 8] For the company, this meant the Grand Seiko should have its own unique style that would resonate with the high-end market. Specifically, Seiko wanted the Grand Seiko’s style to suit both casual and formal attires.[9]

When the original Grand Seiko watch was created in 1960 by the company’s Suwa Seikosha division, its focus was on quality mechanics. [10] It wasn’t until 1967 when the 44GS movement was released that the “Grand Seiko Style” by designer Taro Tanaka would from then on define the style of the series as well as all future Seiko products.[10]

The Grand Seiko range is also highly valued for its craftsmanship, particularly the traditional way in which the watches are created.[11] Every Grand Seiko watch was polished by hand using the“Zaratsu” technique. This is a traditional way of polishing that Japanese watchmakers use to create watches that have a mirror finish with no distortion. [9, 12]

CLASSICS REVIVED IN LIMITED EDITIONS

The 1967 44GS movement, or “The Grammar of Design”, was so iconic that in 2013, Seiko released a limited edition watch based on it, the Grand Seiko 44GS. The replica or remake was powered by a manual 9S64 movement that closely mimics the original.[3] The limited-edition model had two variants, one was the same as the original (700 units stainless steel) and the other came in white, yellow, and rose gold (70 units each).[13]

The Grand Seiko Historical Collection 62GS was another classic revival. The collection included four limited editions: stainless steel with 600 units produced and three gold variants – yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold – with 100 units each.[14]

The original Grand Seiko 3180 was produced in replica, model number  SBGW033, and  1300 units were produced.

 

VARIATIONS

Although “Grand Seiko” is the name given to the entire range, it could also refer to the original Cal. 3180 model when speaking of particular variations within the range.

THE FIRST GRAND SEIKO  

THE 3180 MODEL

The 3180 model was based on the “Crown” movement, which featured 25 functional jewels at 18,000 bph and was hand wound.[18]  It was the first chronometer grade watch manufactured in Japan and was based on an internal Seiko standard and certification. As such, it had the “Chronometer” label on the dial and a lion logo on the case back.  The model number was J14070.

The initial accuracy rate of the 3180 model and the first Grand Seiko standard (-3 to +12 sec/day) was that of the Basel Observatory Chronometer standard at the time, and when this was changed to -1 to +10 sec/day in 1961, the second Grand Seiko standard changed to a slightly different 11 second range (-3 to +8 sec/day). [53,54]

Most of the cases were made from 18k gold-plated (80 microns), although platinum cases were also produced.[5, 52] Rarely, stainless steel cases existed, with the lion symbol on the case back, but with chronometer under, rather than Grand Seiko above.[51,56] It had a snap-type back lid and was non-waterproof. The crown of this model was coarse knurled.

This below is a relatively rare first model 3180 with a carved dial.

The first Grand Seiko with a carved dial

The initial characters on the dial were either printed black or the carved characters as in the image above. This was later changed in 1961 to applied characters in relief as engraving was error-prone and inconsistent. This is the most commonly found dial.[50]

The case back featured an embossed lion with the words Grand Seiko, and the inside case back was engraved 14K Gold Filled J14070  GS.

Above is a Stainless Steel model [56]

Inside case back was engraved Stainless Steel J14070  GS.

THE 57GS MODEL

The 57GS “Self-Dater” variations (from left to right): 5722-9990 with AD Logo, 5722-9990 without AD logo, 5722-9991 also known as the “Calendar Model”, and 5722-9011 in gold

The 57GS “Self-Dater” introduced in 1963 was the only other model that featured “Chronometer” on the dial. After its introduction, Seiko stopped using the label and started implementing the Grand Seiko Standard.[23]

A timeline diagram will show the overlap between models, with an overlap in production between all models.

The 57GS “Self-Dater” was so called because it had a quick set date mechanism. It was the first watch to use a date complication.[3]

The 57GS had four variations: 5722-9990, 5722-9010, 5722-9011, and 5722-9991.  The most common variations are the 5722-9990 and the 5722-9991 models which succeed one another. The 5722-9010 and 5722-9011 are successive gold cap models.

The range’s first model, however, was the Grand Seiko Taiyo 43999 with the 430 movement. The watch features a matte pearl silver sunburst dial, steel baton markers, and steel dauphine hands. The model also has a distinct aperture for the date – a silver steel window frame – at the 3 o’clock mark.[45]

Sunburst dial, and AD symbol

The crown is coarse knurled, although this changed to fine knurled later in the production run.  The image above (and first image on the header) shows a three-pointed star inside a triangle, which is the Applique Dial (AD) symbol. It indicates that Seiko used an applique for the logo rather than printing it on the dial, a technique which wasn’t exclusive to Grand Seiko watches.[45]

Earlier models had the SD symbol, overlapping 4 pointed stars, which indicated a Special dial with gold hour markers.

 

Seiko 57GS’s 430 movement and case back with the lion medallion.

The 430 movement was a step up from the 3180 movement in the first Grand Seiko model.

All models of the 43999 have the Chronometer inscription on the dial and have the lion medallion on the case, a Seiko symbol of chronometer grade.

As can be seen above, the Cal. 430 movement 43999 was cased in a heavily lugged stainless steel case with threaded case back and is waterproof to 50 meters.

As the Cal. 430-43999 model was phased out it overlapped with the Cal. 5722 model. The 5722A was the first generation of 5722 which was produced in 1965. The movement operated at 19800 bph. The watch featured the Chronometer label on the dial, while the 5722B had a fine-knurled crown. Both featured the “W SEIKO” imprint on their crowns.[45]

Later in the production run, when the word “Chronometer” was removed from the dial, the case back also changed. The lion medallion was removed, and the case just featured GS. This did not necessarily mean the Grand Seiko model but that the Grand Seiko Standard of movement had been utilised.  There is overlap between the dials with and without Chronometer, and case backs with and without the lion medallion or GS medallion.

Later versions of 5722 did not retain the Chronometer dial legend due to the lack of independent Commission Internationale des Controles Chronometriaues (CICC) certification facilities in Japan.   The model initially used the second Grand Seiko standard of -3 to +8 sec/day introduced in 1961 [53].

By 1966, the GS Standard was implemented on all Grand Seiko watches, setting a higher level of precision and reliability than any yet achieved by Seiko and even higher than the International Chronometer standards.

Today, the Grand Seiko standard remains higher than today’s chronometer standards involving more tests in more positions and more temperatures.

The model is more commonly called the 5722-9990 model (pictured above – 2nd image) and can have a coarse knurled crown or fine knurled crown. It mostly has a lion medallion case back.

This 5722-9990  model does not have the AD logo, and the movement was engraved 5722A. Both the 430 and 5722A movements were called “tadpole” movements.

A rare Toshiba 25th anniversary with 5722B movement, the lion medallion and a fine knurled crown.  Model 5722-9970.  Case back in Kanji with 1965.  Later versions have GS on the dial, the GS medallion on the back, and 1968.

The 5722B model (third image on heading) generally dispenses with the word “Chronometer” and is known as the Calendar model.  The model number is 5722-9991. The caseback is the GS medallion.  It had GS Standard official approval and operated at 19,800 bph. It also featured coarse knurled and fine knurled crowns.

This has rack and pinion regulation, not tadpole regulation.

An early GS which was a crossover from a KS, GS on the face but with a KS back

The 5722-9010 model was a gold cap version of the 5722-9991. This model is rare and the case back reads GC.

The 5722-9010 gold cap model with the lion medallion back

The 5722-9010 pictured above was a more heavily gold plated model. The variant below is another gold cap version with white dial and gold markings. This has the GS back and reads CAP GOLD.

THE 44GS MODEL

Daini Seikosha released the 44GS in 1964 as a King Seiko Chronometer initially, but because of its appeal and growing reputation as an accurate chronometer in 1966, it became the 44GS Grand Seiko.

Taro Tanaka, Seiko’s first hired graduate of a College Design Program came up with design rules which eventually came to be known as the “Grammar of Design” at Seiko. He wanted Seiko watches to sparkle brilliantly when on display and without any distortions.

The rules were:

1. Perfectly flat surfaces and angles for cases, dials, hands, indexes
2. Two Dimensional faceted curves for the bezel
3. All distortion should be eliminated from the dial, hands, indexes and case, the finishing of the dial and case should be a mirror finish so it shines and sparkles
4. No more round cases, a unique case design

Only Grand and King Seiko watches benefited from this design as the new case design required very expensive and labour intensive polishing and finishing. This is what makes the 44GS so special along with it being the first Grand Seiko made by the Daini factory and the first time the GS logo appeared at 6 on the dial.

The first models had DIASHOCK on the dial, and did not have the Daini logo.

Later models just had the Daini logo.

The difference in Movement between 44GS Grand Seiko (4420B) and the King Seiko Chronometer (4420A) is the control device for the second hand. The case design was changed to emphasize the beauty of a straight line. This formed the basis of later models, 45GS and 61GS.

Production was limited and models are rare.

The back lid is a screwback type and it guaranteed 50 m depth waterproof.

Short lug or pillowcase style and only stainless steel models of this type were produced. No date facility.

The 4420A movement for the King Chronometer (left) and the 4420B for the 44GS Grand Seiko (right)

THE 62GS MODEL

The 62GS and its four variations (from left to right): 6245 – 9000 and 6245 – 9001 both with day complications; 6246 – 9000 and 6246 – 9001 with day/date complications

By early 1966, the Grand Seiko line would have two manual-wound chronometers, the Self-Date 5722 and the no-date 44GS as seen above. With the Japanese’s exclusion from eligibility for a COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification, Seiko would, later on, have to rebrand this model that would become the 62GS.

This Grand Seiko model was originally called the Seikomatic Chronometer and housed an automatic movement, the calibre 6200, introduced in 1966. Seiko was forced to drop the word “chronometer” as a result of the Swiss COSC’s appeal to the watch manufacturer’s self-certification of chronometer ratings.  These Seikomatic Chronometer models were the 6245 – 9000 model which is pictured above on the left with a  day complication and the 6246 – 9000 model which is day/date.

These had Chronometer and Seikomatic Diashock 35 Jewels on the dial and Chronometer 35 Jewels engraved on the movement rotor.

Both of the  Seikomatic chronometers had a back case reading Seiko within a lion medallion, and these models are commonly referred to as Lion Medallion models to distinguish them from the 62GS.

The rebranded Seikomatic Chronometers were then launched in July 1966 as the 62GS and came in two models: the 6245-9001 and the 6246-9001.

The 6245-9001 had a 35 jewel automatic movement and featured a date complication while the 6246-9001 had 39 jewels with both date and day complications. Both models oscillated at 19,800 bph. In terms of design, these new models were considered to be on the high-end side with its bezel-free case construction, a mirrored, multi-faceted case, and Grand Seiko’s highly-regarded “Zaratsu” polishing. It is distinguished by a flush-mounted crown at 4 and a contoured case.  The crown position was at 4 and “hidden” to emphasise that the watch was automatic and did not need a winding crown.

This is the 6245 – 9001 model with a faceted case

This line had four variations: 6245-9000, 6245-9001, 6246-9000, and 6246-9001.   The models 6245-9000 and 6246-9000 are not Grand Seiko models, but are closely related, and are known as Lion Medallion models.

The 6245 – 9001  dispenses with Chronometer and Seikomatic and  has GS and Grand Seiko badging.

The engraving Chronometer has been removed from the rotor.

The 6245 -9001 has the GS caseback but some lion case backs may exist as part of the transition from the 9000 model.

The 6246 – 9000 model (see the third image on the header) is again branded Chronometer and for this model, Seikomatic was written in script. Also, the word “Chronometer” is inscribed in its rotor. The model has the lion medallion caseback.

This has Chronometer on the rotor.

The 6246 – 9001(pictured above, fourth image) has GS and Grand Seiko badging, but some models carry the lion medallion on the back, despite the dial clearly being Grand Seiko.

A gold cap model below with GOLD CAP and the GS medallion on the case back.

THE 61GS MODEL

Another line of automatic watches, the 61GS family, featured higher alterations and were called “Automatic Hi-Beat.” These watches came out in the late 1960s and had the Seiko 6100 movement at 21,000 bph. The 61GS has 20 variations: 6145-8000, 6145-8020, 6145-8050, 6146-8000, 6146-8010, 6146-8020, 6146-8030, 6146-8040, 6146-8050, 6185-8010, 6185-8020, 6185-8021, 6185-7000, 6155-8000, 6156-8000, 6156-8001, 6156-8010, 6156-8020, 6156-8040, and 6186-8000.

V.F.A (Very Fine Adjusted) models boasted accuracy of one minute per month for the first two years of ownership

There were 36,000 watches produced for these two models, in line with the 36,000 bph engineering in the movement.

The seven basic 61GS models were as follows:

6145A (1968-1970) – GS standard official approval, date only
6146A (1968-1970) – GS standard official approval, day/date

Ordinary 61GS models have a 4 in the third digit, and are 614x movements, regulated to the Grand Seiko standard of -3/+5 sec/day.

6155A (1970-1973) – GS Special standard official approval, date only
6156A (1970-1973) – GS Special standard official approval, day/date

The Special 61GS models, have a 5 in the third digit, utilising either the 6155A or 6156A movements, and were introduced in late 1970 for a 10,000 Yen premium.  These movements were regulated to the Grand Seiko Special standard of -/+3 sec/day.  Special features on the dial.

6185A (1969-1972) – V.F.A., date only
6185B (circa 1972-1975) – V.F.A., date only
6186B (1972-1975) – V.F.A., day/date

The VFA (Very Fine Adjusted) movements have an 8 in the third digit and achieve -/+2 sec/day accuracy.

The movement is one of Seikos finest, a 25 jewel automatic hi-beat that operates at 36,000bph, made at their Suwa factory. It can also be wound manually and has a hacking feature. It is finished to a high level, with a nicely decorated rotor. The 61GS movement achieved the Seiko internal GS standard approval, which was adjusted to be within -3/+5 sec/day when it left the factory. The Special standard watches, on the other hand, achieved -/+ 3 sec/day.  It is based on the 61 SeikoMatic 5 movement and was engineered with technology developed from data from the Astronomical Observatory Concours competitions that Seiko did extremely well in during the late 1960s.

6145-8000

The early 6145-8000 model had Grand Seiko written on the silver dial which was marked 8000TAD at 6 o’clock.   The movement was marked 6154A and both GS (sometimes) and Grand Seiko on the rotor.    There was a gold cap version of this model also.   The chapter ring is dotted and is outside the indexes.

 

The 6145 – 8000 was a date only model. The stainless steel model had 8010TAD on the dial and 8000 on the case.

6145-8020

The 6145 – 8020 was a pillowcase style with curious rectangular or baton hands. The case was similar to the Astron, but with a more rectangular style. (On December 25, 1969, Seiko marketed the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron).

Black and grey dial versions also were produced.

The case back has a medallion and is marked STAINLESS STEEL 6145-8020.

6145-8020 in different dial colours

 

6145-8030

6145-8050

The 6145 -8050 model had a hardened stainless steel folded case and had only the words Hi-beat on the dial, not the 36000 (bph).  The case back is engraved STAINLESS STEEL 6145-8050 and features the GS medallion.

This was the only calibre 61 Grand Seiko to feature a green dial. The hardlex crystal could be faceted.    Black and grey dial versions also were produced.

6146-8000

The 6146 – 8000 was the day-date version of the 6145 – 8000.

The early 6146-8000 model is similar to the corresponding 6145 – 8000 model and had Grand Seiko written on the silver dial which was marked 8000TAD at 6 o’clock.

 

Later models have Automatic, Hi-Beat and 36000 on the silver dial which reads 6146-8020TAD

 Gold cap version above with GOLD CAP on the case back.

Below is the cross dial version, with different raised indexes, and the dial reads 8030TAD

6146 – 8010

The 6146-8010 has a sapphire faceted crystal, and “flower carvings” around the GS marking on the dial.   The case came as gold, and stainless steel.

6146 – 8020

The 6146 – 8020 is shown below with rectangular case and was produced a variety of dials, including a tea-stained colour.  Hands were baton-style on some models with raised indices, and line minute divisions on a chapter ring inside the indexes.

6146 – 8030

The 6146-8030 below is an Astron style golf ball dimpled or bark finish version with an 18K yellow gold case, and starlight dial.    Silver cases with a gold finis bezel were also available.

6146 – 8040

The 6146 – 8040 has a polished stainless steel case and a rare starlight dial.

6146 – 8050

This model had a hard steel folded casing and faceted crystal and various dial colours. These models have different raised indexes, a chapter ring inside the indexes, more baton-like hands and do not carry the 36,000 on the dial, but do have hi-beat engraved.   The case is shared with the VFA model.

6146-8050 and its dial colour variations (White, black, and blue)

6185 – 8010

VFA movement.  These models were put together by master watchmakers using selected parts and were accurate to +/- 2 sec/day.

Considered the best 61GS, the V.F.A. model had a Mean Monthly rate of +/- 60 seconds over the first two years. This translates to an accuracy of +/-2 sec/day compared to an ordinary 61GS at -3/+6 sec/day.

Characteristic of this model is: no VFA on the dial, a palladium case (hammered finish), no GS on the case back and thin pencil hands.

6185-8020

6185-8020 (pictured above): The first model has VFA on the dial, thin indexes and long thin hands. The second model has high raised indexes, and shorter hands as the hands are level with the indexes. Maybe this represents the transition to the 6185B movement from the 6185A movement, but both movements are used in this model, and VFA appears on the earlier model dials. Also shown in the image above is the watch’s VFA movement which is red gold plated.

A 6185-8020 model without the VFA wording on the dial

6185 – 8021

The hard stainless steel model, with raised indexes and 6185B movement. 

6185 – 7000

A 18K VFA gold model, with champagne or cream linen cloth finish to the dial.  Thin indexes and long hands.  Marking on the dial is 7000TKT, and the caseback has no medallion.

 

6155 – 8000

Rated accurate to +/- 3 sec/day, and has “Special” written in gold on the dial. The 6155 is a day model, with the 6155A movement.

It has thin elongated bar indices and thin hands like VFA model above, which makes this a very elegant watch.

6156 – 8000

The 6156-8000 is the day/date version of the 6155-8000

6156 – 8001

6156 – 8010

The 6156-8010 SPECIAL is made of HSS (Hard Stainless Steel) and has a 3 sided faceted sapphire crystal as shown in the images below:

6156 – 8020

This was a GOLD CAP version marked SPECIAL in gold.

6156 – 8040

No lugged case, with a brushed finish.   Medallion case back.

 

6186-8000

This model had the 6186B movement and is very rare selling for $10,000 to $20,000.

The feature of the watch, apart from the movement, is the deeply recessed dial, with tall indices.

 

 

The watch also features highly distinctive dial, markers, hands and case. The tall dark slate grey applied markers stand tall. To make room for these high markers, the hour, minute and seconds hands are kept short – rather than float over the markers, they pass short of them. The dial is a fine sunburst silver.

 

THE 45GS MODEL

Another line with the “Hi-Beat”  branding  followed the 61GS line featured the hand-wound Seiko 4500 movement. The late 1960’s manual timepieces had improved to 36,000 bph and thus were called “Manual Hi-Beat”.  Eleven variations are included in this line: 4520-7000, 4520-7010, 4520-8000, 4520-8010, 4520-8020, 4522-7000, 4522-7010, 4522-8000, 4522-8010, 4580-7000, and 4580-7010. The 4520-8020 is the only watch in the series to be Astronomical Observatory Chronometer Officially Certified.

The 45GS is one of the Grand Seiko models that housed the movement developed by Daini Seikosha at the astronomical observatory Concours. The other GS models that benefited from the technology were the King Seiko Chronometer and the King Seiko.

In 1968, Daini Sheikosha submitted 103 entries of its cal. 4520 to the Neuchâtel Observatory for chronometer certification. Swiss observatory chronometry trials were considered important and prestigious events in the watch industry at that time. These high beat movements ran at 36,000 bph as with the other prize-winning chronometers. Of these 103 watches, 73 passed as observatory chronometer-certified and the 4520-8020 is one of these 73.

In 1969 and 1970, a further 180 cal. 4580 movements were submitted and 153 passed as observatory chronometer certified.

All 226 certified models were made available to the public.[55]

 

The calibre variants were:

4500   KS
4502   KS
4520A – GS standard official approval, No date
4522A – GS standard official approval, Date
4580 – V.F.A., Date
4520A – Astronomical Observatory Chronometer official approval, No date

4520 – 7000

The first model in the series is the 4520 – 7000.

The 4520A series did not have a date, and this model had a “folded” case.

It came in both Gold Cap and stainless steel with navy, and white linen look dials.

The stainless steel model is shown below.

Other variants include navy – dialled versions and a gold-capped version with linen dial.

4520 – 7010

This is again the no date 4520A movement in a more oval shaped, rounded case, with a brushed finish.  The dial was either plain or had 36000 on the dial.

4520 – 8000

Short lugged steel case following the grammar of design, which also came in Gold Cap.

 

4520 – 8010

Unique linen case 18 k pure gold model with a white dial.

This model is shown on the right below.

4522 – 7000

The next model in the 45GS  date series is the 4522 – 7000

The 4522A calibre models had a date complication.

This came in stainless steel and gold cap with a variety of dials, white satin, black, and a cream linen look.

The case was a turtle shape with a “fold” at the lugs.

Grand Seiko 4522A (from left to right): Stainless steel cap variant, Gold cap version with linen dial, Stainless steel cap version with black dial

 

Stainless model with linen dial

4522 – 7010

This has a more rounded brushed steel case and is a rarer model.

It was called the  “Linear Beauty”, and has very thin hands.

It was the first GS with sapphire glass, and like the 4520-7010 model was either with, or without, 36000 0n the dial.

 

4522 – 8000

A more traditional short lugged case, as for the 4520-8000 version.

4522-8000 in stainless steel and gold cap versions.  A comemmorative Toshiba employee model was made and is rarely found.

4522 – 8010

This model has a linen surface in 18K yellow gold, with a white dial.

 

The case is the same as that used in the legendary 4520-8020 Astronomical Observatory Chronometer (“AOC”), below.

4520 – 8020

This is a Chronometer certified model with a silver linen woven dial.  Very rare as only 123 were produced. Many of those which passed the Neuchatel standard and then was sold to the public had daily deviation of +/- 0.175 sec/day[55].

4580 – 7000

The model is shown below on the right, with a 6185 VFA model on the left.

This model is an extremely rare VFA watch and very difficult to produce, and kept an accuracy of +/- 2 sec/day and +/- 60 sec/month for 2 years.   Between 1969 and 1970 Seiko sold only 153 Cal 4580 watches as 4580-7000 or 4580-7010.[55}

The 4580-7000 with black dial and the Daini symbol

4580 – 7010

A very rare 4580-7010 VFA

The movement shown below.

 

THE 19GS MODEL

Another line of GS watches, the 19GS, is dubbed as the “Grand Seiko for Women”. Produced in the late 1960s to the early 1970s, the 19GS has three variations: Cal. 1984 VFA grade L4A, Cal. 1964 grade L3A, and Cal. 1944 grade L2A. The last 4 in the model number indicates no date.

The Cal 19 Hi-Beat was the first ladies size mechanical watch worldwide to run at 36,000 bph. It is shown below beside the Lord Marvel, the first Seiko watch to run at 36,000 bph.

The 1944 – 0012 model does not carry Grand Seiko and is sometimes dubbed a Queen Seiko.

1944 – 0020

This model was produced in 1969 and carries the CHRONOMETER designation, the first Japanese ladies model to do so.

 

1964 – 0010

This model has dauphine hands similar to the 62GS, and carries GS on the dial and caseback. Other models with pencil hands were produced.

1984 – 3000

Below is a ladies GS model found on the Grand Seiko website but without a model number, somewhat similar to the 6245 GS :

THE 56GS MODEL

Finally, the last line, 56GS, was often referred to as “Ultra Thin”. It includes 18 variations: 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5641-7000, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, 5645-8000, 5645-5010, 5645-7000, 5645-7010, 5646-5010, 5646-7010, 5646-7000, 5646-7005, 5646-7011, 5646-7020, 5646-7030, 5646-7040, and 5646-8000.

Suwa Seikosha Co: 25jewels: Automatic

• 5641 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j NO DATE
• 5645 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j DATE
• 5646 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j DAY/DATE

Most of the 56GS production process was automated beginning in the 1970s. The precision level suffered as a result of this transition, with a decrease in movement speed from 36,000 bph to 28,800 bph. The reliability level, on the other hand, increased and some people even consider the 28,800 bph to be the best speed for a watch movement, with its balance of maintenance, reliability and precision. As these were mass produced, it is easy to get maintenance parts for the 56GS even now, 40 years after its production, making it the most reliable of all the Grand Seiko models produced in the past.  A slightly less finely tuned calibre 56 movement was also used in King Seiko and Lordmatics.

5641-5000

Hammered 18K yellow gold  tonneau case with gold dial above and champagne dial below in brushed or bark pattern.

 

5645 – 5000

This was the date model of the model above, same style, and both gold and champagne dials.

5641-7000

A turtle shaped brushed case was used for this model.

All these 7000  and 7005 models had the Seiko GS medallion in gold on the back.

Dials are various, silver white, black, dark blue.

with 5645-7000 and 5646-7000 being the day and day/date versions.

Another Toshiba comemmorative model dated 1973 was made 5641-7000.

5645-7000

5646-7000

5641-7005

Model  5641-7005 is the gold version with a linen dial, no date.

5645-7005

5645-7005 is the date version.    Plain dials also exist.

 

5646-7005

5646-7005 the day/date version (pictured below). The case is marked 18K, gold filled.

5645-5010

A square or tonneau case, with either stick indices or Roman numerals with a mottled dial.

5646-5010

The day/date 5646-5010 is similar to the above model.

Black face and Gold Cap version, Roman Numeral Version, and the 5456-5010 caseback with the GS logo

5645-7010

This is a more classical shape, with thin bar indices, thin hands, one of the most prolific GS models.   Dials varied, silver, white, black and navy.   Gold cap models existed.

 

5646-7010

Day/date version of the model above.   Similar dial variations.

A gold cap version with white dial

5646-7011

Silver, and more rarely white dials

5645-8000

Date model, but now a pillowcase style with straight ends, no lugs.

This photograph shows clearly one of the design features of the 56GS.  The hour hand has a thin black line down the center, and the second hand does not have a hole for mounting.   Grey, blue, silver and white dials are seen.

5646-8000

Day/date model with pillowcase style, 35mm diameter.   The bezel and the sides of the case are polished but the lug sides of the pillowcase have a brushed finish.    A grey linen dial model is shown in the centre below. Off white dials also existed.  The strap is made of small cubes.

An 18K Gold model above which did not have the GS medallion.  Dial marked 8000TKT.

5646-7020

A pillowcase model with tall indices.  The case is polished with a central fold line.  Only in a green dial.

The crystal has a 9 facet cut.

5646-7030

The 5646-7030 has pencil thin hands and also had a Gold Cap version.  The dial is sand finished and has 5646-7040T written on it at 6 o’clock.

5646-7040

A Stainless steel watch with Arabic numerals.  The bezel not polished and has a sand finish, while the dial has a variegated finish and reads 5646-7050T.

In all, the Grand Seiko series has 58 main variations. These feature different cases, case shapes, case-back and medallion, movement, dial, dial badge, crown imprint, and crown placement.

MOVEMENTS OF GRAND SEIKO

Seiko started with a manual movement for the Grand Seiko before releasing the series first automatic watch. The series used both mechanical and quartz movements.[15] The Grand Seiko had a total of 22 movements.

The first Grand Seiko featured a hand-winding movement CAL. 3180 at 18,000 bph, 25 functional jewels, and a hairspring that was developed in-house.[16]

The hand-winding movement continued with the Self Dater line which has 35 jewels. The line featured two movements, CAL. 5722 A and 5722 B. The former is 18,000 bph based on Seiko’s internal chronometer declaration, while the latter is 19,800 bph with GS standard official approval.

In The Grammar of Design, Daini added a hand-winding movement, CAL. 4420 B, set at 18,000 bph. [3] The movement was also used for Daini’s first King Seiko.

The 62GS or Self Winding was the first Grand Seiko manual chronograph. It had two movements (CAL. 6245 A and 6246 A), 26 jewels, and was set at 18,000 bph.

The 6200 movement was replaced by the much-faster Automatic Hi-Beat (36,000 bph), featuring a self-winding Seiko 6100 movement (CAL. 6145 A, 6146 A, 6185 A, 6185 B, 6155 A, 6156 A, and 6186 B) which had a power reserve of 46 hours or almost two days. However, creating the movement entailed too much labor so the company mechanized it the following year. The movement was used again in the 1975 Seiko 6159A movement and 6159B for a 600m diver. [3]

The Seiko 4500 movement (CAL. 4522 A, 4580/VFA, 4520 A) that powered the 45GS line was created to replace Daini’s 4440. [3] It is also the same movement in King Seiko 45KS. [3]

The 19GS family had a hand-winding movement (CAL. 1984 VFA grade L4A, CAL. 1964 grade L3A, and CAL. 1944 grade L2A), but the 56GS line (CAL. 5641, 5645 A, and 5646 A) that followed featured a self-winding Seiko 5600 movement.

Finally, the last GS line 56GS (CAL. 5641 A, 5645 A, and 5646 A) had a self-winding Seiko 5600 movement that first appeared in the 1968 Lord Marvel. Backed with 47 hours of power reserve, it was the movement of other watches until 1976, including the King Seiko 56KS, Seiko Duotime, Seiko Chronometer, and Lord Matic timepieces. [3]

[table id=10 /]

COMPLICATIONS

Some watches of the Grand Seiko series have complications, but the original GS launched with none. So did The Grammar of Design, the Grand Seiko for Women, Manual Hi-Beat CAL 4580/VFA and CAL. 4520, and the Ultra Thin CAL. 5641 A.

The first complication was introduced in the Self Dater line, with CAL. 5722A or “Taiyo”. The Self Daters, and the rest that followed featured a date indicator, except CAL. 6246 A, 6146 A, 6156 A, 6156 B, and 5646 A which had Day/Date indicators.

DIALS[17-40]

The many variations in the Grand Seiko series can be characterized by their dial colors, dial badge, stick markers[41], and case-back medallion, among other things. The series, however, lacks lume[42] and subdials[4].

DIAL COLORS

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 came in two dial colors, plain white and silver sunburst. The latter is prominent from in the 57GS, 44GS, and 62GS lines.

Watch collectors should note that model 6145-8050 has a green dial color which is rare. Models 6146-8020 and 4522-7000 with a black dial, 6146-8040 with a starlight dial, and 6146-8050 with a blue dial are also rare specimens of this series.

HANDS

Grand Seiko watches consistently had dauphine hand style, but later on, Seiko added obelisque and index/fils. The latter two were introduced in the Automatic Hi-Beat GS watches and lasted until Seiko ended production of the vintage GS line.

Model 6146-8030 is also said to have gold-plated hands.

DIAL BADGE

The dial badge features a specific set of words and special logos, some of which are distinct to a specific line, movement, or model. Here are the highlights.

The “Grand Seiko” moniker can only be seen in the Grand Seiko CAL. 3180, in 62GS CAL. 6245 A, 61GS CAL. 6185 A and CAL. 6185 B, and in models 6186-8000, 4580-7000, and 5722-9990.

Meanwhile, the “Chronometer” marking is only sported by four  models: Grand Seiko CAL. 3180, 5722-9990, and 6245-9000 and 6246-9000 in transition.

“Diashock” is featured in the dial badge of the first GS through the 62GS line.

The 61GS and the 56GS lines have the Suwa logo, while the 45GS line has the Daini logo. Also in the 61GS movement, Seiko started to use “Hi beat” on the dial, which signified that the watches had higher frequency of beats than the average watches available during that time.[14]

Manual Hi-Beat model 4520-8020 is the only watch in the entire series to have the inscription “Astronomical Observatory Chronometer Officially Certified” in its dial badge. The Daini logo and “Seiko” also appear in the watch’s face.

The entire 56GS line is characterized by a dial badge that has the Suwa logo and the words “Seiko,” “Automatic,” “GS,” and “Hi beat.”

CASES[17-40]

The Grand Seiko series cases measured 31-38mm x 40-44mm, excluding crown. They are screwback and have “water-resistance to 50m depth” or “water-proof” (44GS and 19GS) inscribed on them.

Seiko started out making the cases round, but introduced cushion in model 6145-8020. It also used tonneau in models 5641-5000 and 5645-5000, while models 5645-5010 and 5646-5010 had square cases.

MATERIAL

Seiko initially started using a stainless steel case for its watches and only added gold details later on. From the first Grand Seiko to the 62GS line, Seiko used a pure stainless steel case. It also used stainless steel for its 19GS and 19GS VFA.

Toward the end of the series’ production, Seiko started to feature gold cap or gold plating. A total of eight variations of the 61GS, 45GS, and 56GS families included either of these features, including 18-karat gold for models 6185-7000, 4520-8010, 4520-8020, 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, and 5646-700. Three models, 6146-8000, 6156-8020, and 4520-7000, feature a gold cap. Meanwhile, 6145-8000 is available in gold and stainless steel.

CASE-BACK MEDALLION

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 and the three models that followed (5722-9990, 5722-9010, and 5722-9011), as well as 6246-9000, all featured a lion emblem. Seiko used the emblem to denote “chronometer-grade.”[43]

All the rest featured “GS”, except CAL. 6185 A, CAL. 6185 B, CAL. 4580/VFA, and in models 4520-8010, 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, 5645-5010, and 5646-7005.

GRAND SEIKO’S CROWN IMPRINT

Although most models were unsigned, a number of watches in the Grand Seiko range had crown imprints.

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 had “S”, while the 57GS movement had “w seiko”. The 44GS, 61GS, and most of 45GS and 56GS movements had Original signed “GS”. Model 4520-7000 featured “G”, while models 4520-8020 and 5646-8000 were unsigned. Meanwhile, model 5645-5000 featured “GS” and the Japanese flag.

Also notable is the crown placement in model 6245-9000, which is set at 4 o’clock.

CRYSTAL AND BEZELS

Only three models have crystals and bezels in the entire Grand Seiko range. Both belong to the 61GS line. Two models, 6146-8030 and 6185-7000, sport gold-plated bezels. The former also features a plexi glass crystal instead of acrylic, which Seiko mainly used for its watch glass. Another model, 6146-8010, comes with a sapphire crystal.[44]

 

RECOMMENDATIONS

Watch collectors have to understand that the Grand Seiko range is a luxury line with only limited quantities produced. It is considered to be Seiko’s signature watch. As such, prices of these watches today typically run near or in the thousands of dollar range, depending on condition.[45,46]

START WITH

The Grand Seiko range is noted for its accurate movement. The least accurate among the GS watches has a higher rating than “almost every other brand’s best”,[11] which is great for collectors. Watch enthusiasts who want to start their own Grand Seiko collection can basically pick any of the many variations available. They would still end up with a very accurate watch.

However, for those unsure which model to pick, the original Grand Seiko (Cal. 3180) and the Hi-Beat watches (Cal. 6145A, 6146A, 6155A, 6156A, 5641A, 5645A, and 5646A) are great places to start.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Those looking for something more unique should go for those models with the rare dial colors, case-back medallion, shape, or crown imprint.

As a refresher, GS model 6145-8050, 6146-8020, 4522-7000, 6146-8040, and 6146-8050 all feature rare dial colors. Meanwhile, models 5722-9990, 5722-9010, 5722-9011, and 6246-9000 are the only Grand Seiko watches with the lion emblem. Model 5645-5000 is the only one to feature the Japanese flag in its crown imprint, while models 5641-5000 and 5645-5000 have tonneau cases and models 5645-5010 and 5646-5010 have square cases.

THE GRAIL

Those looking for the most valuable GS watch should look no further than “The Grammar of Design” (44GS Cal. 4420B). This is the model that’s most remembered when talking about the Grand Seiko line. The watch’s design is even called the “Grand Seiko Style”, and Tanaka’s design is so iconic that all Seiko products that were released afterward emulated it. This is a certified must-have for any watch collector.

In design, construction, finish and quality, the 61GS easily compares and stands tall with any of its contemporaries. While the Omega Constellation, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Longines Flagship might garner more attention, the Grand Seikos are just as good in all aspects if not better. Vintage Grand Seikos represent an amazing value for a hi-end dress watch. Because they were not marketed to the US in the 1960s, they can be more difficult to find these days than their Swiss counterparts. That said, they can be had with patience and perseverance. A nice example of a 61GS can be found anywhere from $800 to $1500 depending on condition and seller/market. I know that many people dismiss the notion of a hi-end Seiko, but once you hold one of these in your hands, you can instantly recognize the inherent quality. They are a classy, well designed, engineered and executed watch, true high art horology.

From The Spring Bar Store:

 

References:

1. http://www.ablogtowatch.com/love-grand-seiko-timeless-luxury-watches-explains/
2. http://vintageseikoblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Grand%20Seiko
3. http://www.watch-wiki.net/
4. http://www.grand-seiko.com/about/history.php
5. http://www.seiyajapan.com/pages/the-history-of-grand-seiko
6. https://monochrome-watches.com/seikos-affinity-to-hi-beat-movement-part-one/
7. http://seikousa.com/collections/grand%20seiko/
8. http://forum.watch.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=125438&d=1304617320
9. http://www.grand-seiko.com/sp/collection/62gs/
10. http://www.watch-wiki.net/index.php?title=Grand_Seiko
11. http://www.ablogtowatch.com/love-grand-seiko-timeless-luxury-watches-explains/
12. http://www.grand-seiko.com/about/
13. http://wristreview.com/?p=3194
14. http://www.timeandwatches.com/2015/04/grand-seiko-62gs-historical-collection.html
15. http://www.timelessluxwatches.com/reviews/quick-guide-all-grand-seiko
16. http://museum.seiko.co.jp/en/history/milestone/heritage/index.html
17. http://seikoholics.yuku.com/sreply/170/Seiko-Grand-Seiko-automatic-Ad-scans#.VnI3nUp9600
18. http://www.seiyajapan.com/pages/the-history-of-grand-seiko
19. http://watchopenia.blogspot.com/2010/09/grand-seiko-5646-7000.html
20. http://timekeeper.co.nz/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=333
21. https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/33vxtx/seiko_1967_grand_seiko_44209000_the_first_watch/
22. https://www.reddit.com/r/Watches/comments/1asyvm/grand_seiko_61458000_my_first_vintage_watch/
23. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/king-seiko-45-caliber-4500-a-332836.html
24. http://www.roachman.com/private.html
25. http://seikoholics.yuku.com/sreply/174/Seiko-Grand-Seiko-handwind#.VnN6Dfl9600
26. http://www.ebay.ph/itm/Vintage-1965-JAPAN-GRAND-SEIKO-5722-9990-35Jewels-Hand-winding-/262190915823?hash=item3d0bcbe0ef:g:H9EAAOSwNphWWwwr
27. http://antiquewatchat.blogspot.com/2014/01/grand-seiko-diashock-6245-9000-gs17-rare.html
28. https://adventuresinamateurwatchfettling.wordpress.com/2015/11/08/the-first-automatic-grand-seiko-the-6245-9001/
29. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&goto=3944043&rid=16535
30. http://www.tempusdomains.com/index.php?cat=82&page=3
31. http://www.iishop.co.jp/seikovfa27292largeinen.htm
32. http://wristsushi.proboards.com/thread/6859/rare-seiko-gs-fine-adjusted
33. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=msg&goto=3944043&rid=16535
34. http://www.relojistas.com/threads/16392-Grand-Seiko-6146-8020-pon-una-compresa-de-lujo-en-tu-vida
35. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-Seiko-Hi-Beat-Automatic-Grand-Seiko-Mens-Steel-Gold-Watch-6146-8030-/371479543932?hash=item567de8007c%3Ag%3Ake0AAOSwAYtWOI0+2&nma=true&si=AprNjcNIohGxZJ8juTSRi%252BUS1g0%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
36. http://ninanet.net/watches/others15/Mediums/mseiko5722.html
37. http://brunoandhancock.blogspot.com/2014/07/vintage-grand-seiko-6145-8000-automatic.html
38. http://sorethum.blogspot.com/2014/11/cross-hair-grand-seiko-6146-8000-from.html
39. http://wristsushi.proboards.com/thread/5534/grand-seiko-6146-8020-hibeat
40. http://jewel-jp.com/?pid=1260828
41. http://naligazone.com/index.php/data-watch/seiko/14-watch/seiko/670-seiko-gs-history
42. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f2/whats-up-lack-lume-grand-seiko-1020708.html
43. http://www.grand-seiko.com/collection/limited.php
44. http://wornandwound.com/2014/08/01/affordable-vintage-1970-grand-seiko-61gs-6145-8000/
45. http://watchopenia.blogspot.com/2013/12/grand-seiko-with-chronometer-certified.html
46. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/vintage-grand-seiko
47. http://www.azfinetime.com/seiko-grand-seiko-watch-history/
48. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/three-kings-grand-seiko-919759.html
49. http://seikoholics.yuku.com/forums/69/Japanese-Watch-Info-Database#.V1E77ZN97BI
50. https://thewatchbloke.co.uk/2015/12/29/grand-seiko-calibre-3180
51. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f642/new-arrival-nos-grand-seiko-3180-stainless-steel-2853058.html
52. http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/unboxing-platinum-first-model-grand-seiko-2043346.html
53. http://seikoholics.yuku.com/sreply/170/SEIKO-Brand-Master-Entry-with-marketing-scans
54. http://vintageseikoblog.blogspot.com/2011/05/reflections-on-1964-cal-43043999-grand.html
55. http://www.watchprosite.com/page-wf.forumpost/fi-17/ti-756433/pi-5006838/
56. https://thewatchbloke.co.uk/2016/06/06/grand-seiko-j14070-in-stainless-steel/

 

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Modern Grand Seiko

In 2011, to mark its 130 anniversary as a company, Seiko created a limited edition reissue of the first Grand Seiko model.

 

In 2013 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko remanufactured the 44GS model, the 44GS Historical Collection.  The true reproduction, Grand Seiko SBGW047 is a limited edition of 700 pieces in stainless steel.  

 

Daini Seikosha released the 44GS in 1964 as a King Seiko Chronometer initially, but because of its appeal and growing reputation as an accurate chronometer, in 1966 it became the 44GS Grand Seiko.

Taro Tanaka, designed the watch and his design rules eventually came to be known as the “Grammar of Design” at Seiko.

Only Grand and King Seiko watches benefited from this design as the new case design required very expensive and labour intensive polishing and finishing.

The most attractive element of the 44GS is the angular case, with its broad polished flanks, and a brushed plane in between the lugs.  This watch dial marked the first time the GS logo appeared at 6 on the dial.

The SBGW047 limited edition is faithful to the original, with a 37.9mm case, but because of the new manually wound Grand Seiko 9S64 movement, the 1966 model thickness was 10mm and the SBGW047 is 11.5mm.

 

The Grand Seiko seal on the case back was gold filled in the 1966 model and is stainless steel embossed in the SBGW47 model

 

The 1966 model had acrylic glass and SBGW047 has sapphire crystal.

Additionally, this reissue is also available in white, yellow and rose gold, each limited to 70 pieces. The model references are SBGW043, SBGW044 and SBGW046 respectively. 

The white gold SBGW043 model differs from the stainless steel SBGW047 because of its blue accented second hand and GS logo.

The line up is shown below.

 

While there have been many versions of the Grand Seiko since our article on the initial series of watches prior to production ceasing due to the Quartz Crisis, we will cover in this section reinterpretations of the original watches.

The introduction of the 9S55 calibre in 1998 has allowed the development of a whole range of Grand Seiko watches, but we cannot cover them all.

The J14070 with the Cal 3180 movement has been reinterpreted several times.

The earliest versions of the J14070 had Grand Seiko printed in black or carved into the dial, but in 1961 this changed to an applied signature.  These models had Chronometer printed under the signature.   Most of the models were gold filled, but platinum, and now more rarely found stainless steel versions were made.

In 2001 to celebrate the 120th anniversary of Seiko, a 300 piece limited edition of the Grand Seiko, SGBW004 was released in the JDM.   (Grand Seiko models were sold exclusively to the JDM until 2010).

This was a yellow gold model.  The dial has an applied signature and does not have Chronometer printed.  Earlier models of the J14070 had the SD symbol, overlapping 4 pointed stars, which indicated a Special Dial with gold hour markers, and this model continues this tradition.

 

The movement was the 9s54 from 1998, with 50+ hour reserve.

Then to celebrate the 130th Anniversary, Seiko reinterpreted the J14070 in all the original materials, gold (SBGW040), platinum (SBGW039) and stainless steel (SBGW033).

The gold version was a limited edition of 130 watches.

The 9S64 movement was developed for this release and is a 24 jewel movement that uses Spron 510 (an in house developed alloy proprietary to Seiko) mainspring which gives the movement a 72 hour power reserve.

The SBGW040 has what Seiko calls a box-shaped sapphire crystal, while the original had a domed plexiglass as was common for the 1960s.   The 2011 model differs in that the SD symbol is missing, and also has a narrower lug bevel, but a bigger crown.

The platinum version SBGW039 also comes in a 130 piece limited edition.

This has a silvered second hand.

The SBGW033 was in stainless steel, and 1300 pieces were produced.

The Grand Seiko Rebrand

In 2017 Seiko rebranded Grand Seiko as a brand in its own right.

To celebrate this occasion, Grand Seiko have again released reinterpretations of the first Grand Seiko from 1960, the J14070 with the Cal 3180 movement.

SBGW252 in gold had 353 pieces in limited edition.   The SD symbol has reappered on the dial, indicating gold indices.

The watch is bigger than the original J14070 and the above 2 reeditions, moving from 36mm to 38mm.

Grand Seiko’s own in-house caliber 9S64 manually wound movement is used, delivering 72 hours of timekeeping when fully wound.

There are 1,960 examples in steel, 353 in gold, with subtle design

The details that set the platinum SBGW251 apart go beyond the case metal. The dial is made of 18k gold and finished with a radial brushing, while the hour markers are similarly 18k gold.

The Grand Seiko signature is engraved onto the gold dial. The engraved signature is found only on the platinum model, as is the specially regulated movement. The calibre 9S64 inside the platinum version is rated to -1 to +5 seconds day, compared to -3 to +5 seconds for the other two models.

This is the most limited of the limited series, at 136 pieces – in honour of Seiko’s 136th anniversary.

The SBGW033 is similar to its precious metal peers, but the hour markers are steel, explaining the absent SD logo. A blued steel seconds hand is used.

The Grand Seiko lion emblem on the back of the steel watch is a solid gold medallion.

differences between them. But each is a winner. At $5,700, the steel SBGW253 is also one of the year’s best bargains.