The IWC 3705 was one model in a line of aviation chronograph (fliegerchronograph) wristwatches manufactured by Swiss watchmaker International Watch Company (IWC). Nicknamed the “black flieger,”[1] the IWC 3705 was the first ceramic chronograph ever produced.[2]

HISTORY OF IWC 3705

The IWC 3705 was part of IWC’s pilots watch collection, a collection that goes all the way back to the iconic Mark XI model, which also helped IWC become a household name in luxury pilots watches.[3]

The IWC 3705, also known as the “Black Flieger” (images by DWC user: aikiman44)

The 3705 was manufactured during the early days of what is known as the Swiss resurgence in watchmaking. During that time, IWC was one of the first luxury watchmakers to experiment with new materials in their efforts to manufacture durable watch cases. In manufacturing the 3705, the watchmaker went for a type of ceramic made from zirconium oxide, known to be durable but a notoriously difficult and expensive material to work with at the time.

The 3705 line was introduced in 1994. However, it was only available in the market for a short time as it was discontinued in 1997, three years after its debut. Some speculations have been raised as to why the 3705 line only had a short run in the market. One speculation is that IWC found it too difficult and expensive to continue utilizing zirconium oxide to manufacture the watch cases. The fact that it was the first time a manufacturer attempted to mass-produce a watch case made of this material also compounded matters for the manufacturer. Another speculation is that IWC was disappointed with the market reaction to the 3705 as it was perceived to be cheap-looking, a product of an aversion of the public at the time to black watches, as most of the black watches in the market then were made of cheap quartz plastic. Despite being a ceramic wristwatch, the black coating of the 3705 made it a target of an adverse public reaction to black watches in general.[3]

A catalog scan for the 3705 (left), and an ad featuring the similar 3713 (right)

Despite its short history, the IWC 3705 has achieved cult status, as it attracted a number of admirers, not to mention countless imitations as well. One admirer is J.J. Redick, a professional basketball player for the Los Angeles Clippers team of the NBA. Redick, himself an avid collector of fine watches, is noted in an article to have a blacked-out IWC 3705 which has a luminous display of the radioactive tritium on its dial.[4]

PRODUCTION

Fewer than 2000 examples of the IWC 3705 were made during its short production run; all were designed, assembled, and regulated in IWC’s facilities in Schaffhausen, Switzerland.[5] It adopted the Valjoux 7750 calibre as its base movement and had two variations that were manufactured based on different calibres of this movement: cal 7902 (manufactured from 1994 to 1997) and cal 7912. (manufactured in 1997).[6]

In addition, IWC also manufactured a stainless steel version of the 3705, the IWC 3706. Other than the material used, the rest of the technical and design specifications of the 3706 are similar to that of the 3705.[1]

Due to its short history, IWC 3705 watches are now very rare to find.

DESIGN

The watch bears the design conceptualized by Lothar Schmidt, an engineer and watch entrepreneur who worked with IWC at the time. During his stint in IWC, he developed an innovative case and bracelet production and helped solve problems which dealt with the difficulty to process materials such as titanium, platinum, and ceramics.[7]

IWC’s Annual Edition (published circa 1993) noted that the IWC 3705 seemed destined to cause quite a stir among lovers of unusual timepieces. The report raved about the use of ceramic in creating a watch which was reminiscent of state-of-the-art stealth and space travel technology.[8]

The watch has a matte black surround, the precision of which can be seen in the luminescent white hands and numerals, while the high-tech ceramic technology used in the watch would reportedly allow for stealth technology. With regards to day-to-day use, the watch is noted to be the most durable that can withstand everyday wear without significant risk of damage thanks to its super-durable ceramic case.[3]

DETAILS AND SPECIFICATIONS

MOVEMENT

Valjoux 7750, the base movement for the IWC 3705, was developed by Valjoux, a notable producer of chronograph movements, especially mechanical chronograph movements that have been used in a number of watches, such as those manufactured by Enicar, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Longines, and IWC.[9]

IWC calibre 7902 (left), IWC calibre 7912 (right)

DIALS

The 3705 dial is of luminous material that was made from tritium, with black coating and featured pump pushers and a traditional pilot’s Chrono dial.[10] Later versions, however, replaced tritium with Luminova.[1]

The layout consists of luminous hands and markers (light patina), Day and Date at 3:00, and 3 registers: 30 Minute Register at 12:00, 12 Hour Register at 6:00, and Subsidiary Seconds at 9:00. The numbers are marked in Arabic numerals. [11]

This dial configuration is known as the “black pilot,” particularly the models of the 3705 manufactured in 1994.[12]

CASE

As noted earlier, aside from the matte black ceramic case used in IWC 3705, a stainless steel variant was made for the IWC 3706, which is essentially the stainless steel version of the 3705.[13] The caseback is a screw back type and is made of stainless steel, the same material used for the crown and the pushers as well.[5]

CRYSTAL

The IWC 3705 uses sapphire crystal as material for the watch crystal.[14]

A sapphire crystal protects the face of the IWC 3705

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON THE IWC 3705

During the time it was on production, the IWC 3705 commanded an original premium of 50% at list price. At that time, it had a price tag of about $6000.

Image by: Francis Chang (minutedreamer on flickr)

Currently, a 3705 in good condition would fetch somewhere between US$4000 and US$7000 in auctions and from second hand retailers.

RECOMMENDATIONS

Given its short production history, the IWC 3705 is rare to find at present. At the same time, its place as an important timepiece in the history of watchmaking makes it a high-end watch and a collector’s item itself.

During the time it was on production, the IWC 3705 commanded an original premium of 50% at list price, with a price tag of about $6000. Today, a unit can command a price range from US$4000 to as high as  US$7000 in auctions and online marketplaces.

There are no known variations of the 3705, given the limited time, it was on the market, save for its sibling, the aforementioned IWC 3706 which is the stainless steel version of the ceramic cased 3705. The 3706 has a lower premium as it is being sold anywhere between $2500 to $3500.

One important thing to remember in purchasing a 3705 is that there may be a lack of available replacement cases should damage occur at the ceramic case. In the event of such damage, you may be advised that it could be replaced with a stainless steel case, which would turn the watch into a 3706.[13]

From The Spring Bar Store:

References:

1. goldstein, IWC Fliegeruhr Chronograph 3705, Movement archive 2009
2. hodinkee, History Lesson: Comparing The IWC Top Gun Miramar Chronograph vs. IWC’s Very First Ceramic Chronograph, The 3705, Article 2012
3. reddit user zanonymous, —- /r/Watches Official Buying Guide US$5000-$10000 —-, Post 2012
4. Peter Flax, L.A. CLIPPERS STAR J.J. REDICK REVEALS HIS NOT-SO-SECRET “OBSESSION”: WATCHES, Article 2014
5. thedivewatchconnection user aikiman44, The Flieger Chrono, Forum post 2012
6. watchprosite user shing, small review of the history of IWC ceramic pilots…, Forum post 2013
7. watchwiki, Schmidt, Lothar, Watch Wiki 2015
8. Alexander Linz, CHARLIE-ECHO-ROMEO-ALFA-MIKE-INDIA-CHARLIE, Article 2012
9. bernardwatch, About ETA Valjoux 7750 Watches, Article
10. tz-uk user feilersen, IWC 3705 Ceramic Flieger, Forum post 2011
11. timezone user DC_Timekeeper,  FS: IWC 3705 Ceramic Fliegerchronograph Full Set, Forum post 2014
12. thewatchquote, PILOT’S WATCH EDITION TOP GUN, Article 2007
13. iwc forum user SPORTMICHAEL, I HOPE IWC CAN ADDRESS MY PROBLEM WITH A 3705 SERVICE/REPAIR.., Forum post 2014
14. DC_Timekeeper, mywatchmart listing, FS: IWC 3705 Ceramic Fliegerchronograph Full Set, Aug 26, 2014 listing

HISTORY INTRODUCTION OF NATO WATCH STRAP

Some would argue that the NATO watch strap history did not exist in WWI, but in fact, their grandfather straps were in existence prior to, and after, WWI.   The DNA for NATO wrist straps was well developed by the end of WWI.

The development and history of NATO watch strap are part of the evolution of the military watch. Watches were a critical requirement for military manoeuvres and the wristwatch was essentially spawned, and became prevalent, in WWI.

We take the availability of the correct time for granted, but in 1914 things were very different. A 1000 man battalion of the British Expeditionary Force in WWI would have had only eight GS (General Service) pocket watches issued. One to the Signalling Sergeant and the others to be shared among 16 Signallers.  Officers were not equipped with pocket watches by the Army but were required to provide these themselves, and often they chose watches with wristlets. Coordinating operations in these circumstances would have been difficult.

The H. Williamson watch below was one GS issue. These watches were retrospectively designated GS watches in July 1929 when the GS MkII watch was introduced, and they were declared obsolete. Few, if any, were engraved GS; rather they carried the pheon and an inventory number.

Because of the lack of what proved to be an essential item in the trenches, contemporary advertisements urged family and friends at home to send a watch or wristlet watch to the front, as in the advertisement below for Waltham wristlets in silver cases, which says “So send me the very best you can buy…”

The first consistent use of the word wristwatch in newspapers was in 1915, and prior to that the word wristlet was more commonly used to distinguish wristlets from pocket watches and to describe leather pocket watch straps.

In the 1916 book entitled “Knowledge for War,” the recommended Officer’s Kit commenced with a luminous wrist watch with unbreakable glass.

This article traces the roots of the military development of the NATO watch strap history from the leather wristlet.

PRE WWI

Below is a 1901 advertisement for wristlets “For the Tourist, the Bicyclist, the Soldier”. The use of wristlets had developed in the late 1880’s, and these and bracelets were more common for ladies watches, but to tell the time on a bicycle with a pocket watch would have been difficult. This led to the use of wristlets for pocket watches, to be used by men and women when on a bicycle.

The 1893 advertisement from Henry Wood and Co in London shows that the habit of clipping a pocket watch to the bicycle was fraught with danger.     Cycle racing required accurate stop watches.

Image courtesy MWR forum user: bobbee

The 1890’s development of the bicycle into a safe form of transport led to a bicycle craze in America which peaked in 1896 and was then exported to Europe.  In this era before motor vehicles, the New York Tribune in 1895 asserted that the bicycle was “of more importance to mankind than all the victories and defeats of Napoleon, with the First and Second Punic Wars . . . thrown in.”

Wristlets could be bought in a variety of leather types, as in the 1901 advertisement above.   The pocket watch strap above is a Garstin type strap.

The Elfina advertisement from 1896 below shows a ladies bicycling watch in a looped pouch, in effect a leather lugged watch.    For extra security, this style of strap only required one lug at the base of the pocket watch.

An Omega advertisement from 1911 shows a wire lugged watch with a leather pull-through strap.  Some of the early bracelet watches had the crown at 9 o’clock as shown in the advertisement.   Outdoor activities and the army were targets of the advertisement.

A 1910 Omega with the crown at 9 o’clock, marked depose 9846 is shown below the advertisement.  Dimier Frères & Cie patented watches with handles on 29 July 1903.  It was deposed (patent number) CH9846.   The patent showed a strap identical to that in the advertisement.

The advertisement below shows a leather pull-through strap on a watch with lugs.

THE GARSTIN AND OTHER WRISTLETS

The wristlet shown in the 1901 advertisement history above is similar to the current NATO watch strap. However, a further refinement by Garstin increased the likeness.

The leather goods retailer Arthur Garstin registered the design below with the British Board of Trade. The date of registration of this wristlet design RD 217622 was 2 September 1893, but the wristlet would have been in production prior to this.   The strap B passed through the eyelet A to hold the pocket watch in place by lifting up the backing strap.

Whether the design stemmed from the development of the safety bicycle, or from use by the British Empire forces in India or on the Northwest Frontier between 1885 and 1887 is unclear.

The new tennis scorer was also registered 20058 on 2 October 1893, but obviously proved unpopular, and has disappeared without a trace.

The ladies wristlet, RD 70068 bottom left in the advertisement above, is shown below.  In this design, the strap has a pouch which holds the watch to a backing strap.

Below is an 1893 advertisement for the “Skirmisher” by Mappin Brothers.  It features a Garstin type wristlet with a wider strap.   The backing leather extends from where the pouch is sewn on, to the buckle.   After the first Boer War, the watch was no longer necessary for officers to time troop movements, so it could be used for hunting, yachting, and cycling,……

The second Boer war (1899-1902) contributed to pocket watches being used in a leather pouch worn on the wrist.

The 1901 Mappin and Webb’s advertisement for the ‘Campaign’ watch followed on from the Skirmisher advertisement.  Mounted in a Garstin type wristlet, the advertisement below urged family and friends at home to send a solid leather wristlet watch to the front.  It read “Delivered at the front duty and postage free for an additional 1 s. (shilling) each.”

1901 Mappin and Webb’s advertisement in the “Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News” 7 September 1901.  “Reliable timekeeper under the roughest conditions”.

Below is an Omega advertisement for a military safety watch with a leather strap which will “hold and protect the watch during the roughest riding and most violent exercise.” The watch was in a pouch held by a press stud so that the watch could be removed from the wrist without removing the strap.  Omega used the term wrist watch, but this did not fall into common use. The  “6” size wristlet was for men, and the “O” size wristlet was for ladies.

Following on from the Boer War, leading into WWI other manufacturers also produced leather wristlets.

Nurses and automobiling were additional to cycling and general use as wristlet targets.

Image courtesy of Watchuseek user : AbslomRob

Above is an advertisement by the Canadian department store Eaton from 1908.  At the turn of the century they often used Waltham watch movements as their in house brand. The wristlet was aimed at “nurses, automobiling, cycling and general use”, not the military.   The design was an adaption of the Garstin design with a wider strap passing through a slot, holding down the pouch, and the buckle at 6 o’clock. Wristlets were available in hide for 25 cents, pig skin 35 cents, seal or morocco leather 50 cents, or alligator or walrus for 75 cents.

THE DIMIER STRAP

There has been much debate and controversy about the date and make of the first wrist watch. Certainly in 1890 in Switzerland wrist watches were themselves causing debate. The Federal Department of Foreign Affairs, Trade Division, wrote to the authorities for assay of articles of gold and silver concerning wrist watches:

“Berne, January 10, 1890.

Gentlemen,
The question we were asked was whether and on what conditions wrist-watches may be subject to hallmarking; this question requires detailed study due to the fact that objects of this kind are at different times categorised as objects of jewellery and as objects of watchmaking, and that these two categories of objects are, regarding hallmarking, subject to different requirements.

We have the matter under review; at such time as it is completed we will let you know the decisions we have taken to address the issue. In the meantime, we have asked the control authorities to cease hallmarking (this applies to both at the present time):
a. watch cases destined to be mounted in bracelets;
b. bracelets which it would be possible to attach to watch cases after their passage through control.”

However, whether hallmarked or not, it is certain that a wristwatch design with wire lugs was patented by Dimier Frères & Cie (called watches with handles) on 29 July 1903.  It was deposed (patent number) CH9846.  At the same time, they illustrated a leather strap with a circular midsection to fit behind the watch.    The crown of the watch in the illustration is at 12 o’clock.

This design required the buckle to be sewn into the strap after fitting to the watch. To avoid this, a special buckle, which they later registered in 1907, had to be fitted to the strap after it was threaded in each direction through the wire lugs of the watch.

Below is a depose 9846 enamel dial wire lug watch, hallmarked history dated to 1905, with the movement marked DF&C (Dimier Freres et Cie), with the crown at 9 o’clock and an open-ended leather NATO watch strap.

The Elgin wrist watch (heading) or strap watch (text) advertisement from 1913 shows a Dimier strap and buckle on an Elgin watch, designed for active men.

In this 1917 Omega advertisement, the widening of the Dimier strap behind the watch can be seen.  The watches are encased in a hermetic box (still labelled depose 9846) for protection and feature a radium option for an extra 12 to 15 francs.

Below is the watch in the advertisement above, case stamped depose 9846.

By the time of WWI, there were patents for both wristlets, and wire lugs (watches with handles), and the history of the seed had been sown for the future NATO watch strap, but the use of watches on the wrist, although popularised by the 1990’s bicycle craze was not common, especially among men.

Below is an extract from the Swiss Federation Horlogere bulletin No. 103 of 31 December 1924 which shows that in the first 11 months of 1913, the year before WWI, 11.27 million pocket watches were exported from Switzerland, and in addition 210,404 wrist watches (montres bracelets) were exported.    Watches with wrist bands were only 1.6% of the Swiss export production.

This small percentage of the finished watch market ignores the fact that another 2.18 million watch cases were also exported, for other manufacturers to add movements.

WWI led to the more prevalent use of watches on the wrist.

WWI ERA POCKET WATCH STRAPS

At the time of WWI, wrist watches were de rigueur street wear in London if the Macy’s wristlet watch advertisement of 1912 is to be believed.   They were soon to be required in great numbers for a monumental outdoor activity, but in truth, virtually only pocket watches existed at the time of WWI.

THE LEATHER WRISTLET

Below is a Garstin pouch, which was typical of the way in which pocket watches were used in WWI.   The 579D specification below is virtually identical.

Some pocket watches were issued to troops, and in recognition of the need for these to be worn on the wrist, in 1916 a military specification was developed based on the Garstin strap, for what became history by the end of the war as a watch strap.  Made of pig skin 11 inches long and 1/2 inch wide, tan in colour, with a hinged brass circular holder 1 and a half inches diameter, with sheepskin inside, and pigskin glued on the outside, with a black oxidised brass buckle.  The buckle was at 6 o’clock.

The Official Specification for Movements, Cases and Straps, General Specification 579D, of 24 October 1916 read :

“6 Wristlet – A wristlet shall be furnished with each watch.  This wristlet shall be made of single-ply genuine pigskin and shall be of the dimensions and made up as shown upon drawing.”

The first version in the history of the NATO watch strap had been specified by the US military.

Image credit MWR forum user: bobbee

Below is a pouch strap which had a shrapnel guard to protect the watch face, and a leather pouch to help hold the watch and guard in place.  The pouch is removable, and together with its contents is effectively a leather lugged pocket watch, as seen in the 1896 cycling advertisement above.

Image courtesy Vintage Watch Forums user: Findingtime

Above is a leather lugged pocket watch converter made by the Western Leather Manufacturing Co. of San Francisco.

THE DAPTABEL

The Daptabel, patent 22449/10 by John Smith for an “expanding watch wristlet”, was a conversion device to allow pocket watches to be worn on the wrist.  While various concertina type devices existed prior to the patent in 1910, this was a simple two-part strap which allowed 2 metal hooks to slide and grip a pocket watch as the strap was buckled up.   The strap was 21cm long, and the buckle was at 6 o’clock. Daptabel was stamped on the cross member in either capitals or script, and patent 22449/10 was stamped on the tongue.

Below is a similar sprung conversion device, perhaps a variant of the Daptabel.

THE ALLEN

Charles Allen on 18 September 1918 patented a watch holder for pocket watches.  The watch strap is shown schematically in the history patent below.

THE ROSENTHAL

The Rosenthal watch wristlet clip was a later US patent, from 6 November 1917, similar to the Daptabel clip.   As wrist watches developed, this patent was not too late to be of commercial value, for as can be seen from the table at the start of this article, even in 1924, the Swiss export statistics for finished watches, showed wrist watches had only climbed to 37% of the market.

OTHER CONVERTERS

In 1909 Blacklock registered a bakelite converter which fitted over a pocket watch. A similar metal converter is shown below, allowing a strap to be passed through the lugs.

Other unknown brand converters existed, a spring loaded clamp being shown below.

THE WIRE LUG WATCH

Dimier Frères & Cie patented watches with handles on 29 July 1903 in depose (patent number) CH9846.  The subsequent Omega wire lugged watch with the crown at 9 o’clock (in section “Pre WWI” above), and the Waltham advertisement below which shows a wire lug watch with a two-part webbing strap riveted into place, and the crown of the watch at 3 o’clock, indicating that wire lugs were not a design afterthought by about 1910.

Ingersoll had the capacity to manufacture large numbers of wrist watches and advertised these from 1909 onwards.  Their name wrist watch did not catch on immediately.  The advertisement below in 1913 is targeted for “outdoor folks” and “husky sportsmen”. Also, they state “Uncle Sam endorses and recommends the wrist watch for his army and navy.”

A typical officer’s pocket watch was the Mappin and Webb’s Campaign watch as seen already above.   Now, in 1914, it was a trench watch, which was essentially a pocket watch with wire lugs, but with the crown at 3 o’clock, and was still sold to the public with delivery to the front available for an extra shilling.   The dial is signed MAPPIN and “CAMPAIGN”.

WWI ONE PIECE STRAPS

THE PERSHING STRAP

The Pershing strap was the simplest design. It was a 9/16 inch wide olive drab waterproof webbing pull-through strap which had a crimped metal tip and a patented buckle.  This buckle made the strap infinitely adjustable, without the need for eyelets in the webbing.

THE STEVEL WRISTLET

THE KITCHENER STRAP

The Kitchener strap provided a wide backing to the 12mm pull-through strap, and this was a very popular solution to prevent both sliding and twisting and to provide some isolation for the watch.   Below is a Hirsch advertisement which shows the styles.

Below is an Illinois Kitchener watch advertisement from 1917.

Leather Kitchener (and Bund) style watches were common throughout WWI, continuing to the present, and could be easily produced by any saddler.

Although not the subject of this article, this style was also the grandfather of the NATO Bund strap NSN 6645-12-145-6415.

ONE PIECE INFINITELY ADJUSTABLE STRAPS

In America, WWI led to a number of patented one-piece straps for wire lug watches.   The strap was looped over one wire lug, passed through the other lug, and then tightened and clipped into place.   This allowed an infinite range of adjustment.  The “D-D” No Fuss Strap is discussed first, as it is the most widely advertised model.

THE ‘NO FUSS’ STRAP

Depollier produced a “D-D” Khaki Watch, with a Waltham movement, and a “No Fuss” Ordinance Department webbing strap in mid-1917.  D-D stood for C.L. Depollier and E. C. Duncuff.  The watch strap could be adjusted to any size as it had a patented clamp (July 25, 1916).    The clamp was removable and could be engraved as shown in the advertisement below. In history by 1918, the NATO watch strap width had increased to 3/4 inch, which both reduced twisting, and also allowed more room for engraving on a wider clasp.

The perceived benefits of the “No Fuss” strap are explained below.   These would apply to any similar looped strap.  (The B-Uhr watch issued in WWII had a looped leather strap to prevent accidentally dropping the watch).

 

The “No Fuss” clasp is shown above.  It was removable as seen in the top advertisement, and fitted into the loop of a replacement strap.     The strap was Cravenette treated (a waterproof process invented by the Bradford Dyers Association) webbing and cost 35 cents to replace, the same price as a leather strap.

THE SIMPLEX STRAP

The Simplex strap was quite simple, an S-shaped clasp made it the only military strap with a one-piece buckle.  Pulled tight and clipped on, it allowed the strap to fit any wrist.

THE LIBERTY STRAP

The Liberty Khaki quick action strap came on Gruen military watches.  The thin slider could be passed through the wire lugs and once the webbing strap was looped on one wire lug, it could be pulled tight and used to make any watch fit tightly.

THE J.F. STURDY STRAP

The US fastener by J.F. Sturdy and Sons is shown below left, probably having survived the war because of the gold plating.  This watch strap could be fitted to any watch, and the US tab fitted into the horns of the slider, providing infinite adjustment.

Left-hand Image courtesy Vintage Watch Forum user: Literustyfan, Right-hand image courtesy : Stricklandvintagewatches.com

Below is a 1918 Patria watch in a Fahys shrapnel case, with a J.F. Sturdy and Sons strap.

Images courtesy: Stricklandvintagewatches.com

THE VICTOR SENCE STRAP

Patent 8 October 1918 no US1280877 for a wrist watch fastening by Victor Simon Sence states :

My invention relates to fastening means for the loops or bands used to secure wrist watches upon the person of the wearer and presents a simple, readily detachable and adjustable device for holding the free end of the band which is usually looped around the wearers-wrist, passed through an ear upon the watch case and then doubled back for attachment to an intermediate portion of said band.

A device of this character must be easily and quickly attachable and detachable by the free hand of the wearer, and easily-adjustable to wrists of different sizes. It should also be simple and free from moving parts which would be apt to break or get out of adjustment under conditions existing on a battle front. My present invention attains these objects and certain, advantages hereinafter to be set out.

This had a cam like action to clamp the strap end to the slider, to provide infinite adjustment.

THE STRONGHOLD STRAP

The Stronghold strap, a July 16 1918 patent, was able to be attached instantly without fuss or bother, as the clasp had 2 hooks for attaching it to the watch strap,  and is another variation of the press-fit strap.

The press fit clasp is shown below and presses onto 2 horns mounted on a slider.

Image courtesy Stan Czubernat: LRFAntiqueWatches.com

THE WALTHAM BRACELET

The Waltham bracelet is shown below on a Waltham Cadet watch which had punched stainless lugs.

This NATO watch strap could be looped through one lug, and the clasp hooked onto a slider.  The advertisement dates to 1922, so this bracelet may never have featured in WWI.   Again, it is but a slight variation on the J.F. Sturdy strap.

Image courtesy Watchuseek user: Literustyfan

THE PERSON STRAP

A. Person patented a buckle on 20 November 1917 for a hinged clasp on a sliding strap.

Image courtesy: Stricklandvintagewatches.com

A Waltham with a shrapnel protector on a Person buckle strap.

A SLIDING CLIP

This clip slid over two horns locking it into place.

Another sliding clip is shown below on a woven strap fitted to an early watch with handles, still with the crown at 12 o’clock.

THE CLIMAX/VICTOR STRAP

E.J. Pearson and Sons became the largest strap maker in England.  The registered design number 529337 with the British Board of Trade on 27 August 1908.  The design is below.  A range of names in history, Simplex, Climax, Victor, and Premier were used for various versions of the NATO watch strap.

Image courtesy: David Boettcher of Vintage Watch Straps

At the end of WWI, the term wristwatch was in common use, but the wrist watch, particularly in America was not commonly used by men, even by returning servicemen.

It was only in the late 1920s that wrist watches gained popularity in America.

THE SPRING BAR IN WWI

In the search for a workable strap for wire lug watches, C.L. Depollier and E. C. Duncuff, had earlier in 1916 patented history the “No Fuss” NATO watch strap and clasp. However, the market still was focussed on pocket watches.  They sought to dispense with the wire lug on a pocket watch and patented fold-away lugs for a pocket watch (Figure 4) and the spring bar as shown below in Figure 8, on 15 August 1916.

The patent showed fold away fingers or lugs on a pocket watch.

The patent read:

The fingers f are adapted to receive between them and to engage a bar to which the ribbon, either sautoir or wrist, or, it may be, a chain or bracelet, is connected. Preferably such bar g is made as a compression bar, comprising two telescoping members g1 and g2 with an interposed spring g3 tending to extend the bar and with a pin and slot connection g4 to limit such movement. Each outer end of the bar is provided with a projecting pin g5 to enter a corresponding recess f3 formed in the inner face of the corresponding finger f, as clearly shown in Fig. 4. The ribbon c may be connected to the bar by looping and stitching in an ordinary manner, as indicated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, or the bar may be provided with a loop or eye g6, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, for engagement with a snap ring or hook.

It will be obvious that when the watch is to be worn as a wrist-watch, on a ribbon, the opposite pairs of opposed fingers are extended and engaged with the wrist ribbon.

Still convinced of the popularity of the pocket watch, Depollier also patented detachable lugs for pocket watches in 1917.  This allowed a thinner case than the prior patent, with hinged adapters Fig 5 and 7, which fitted over small lugs c.  One adapter was a looped lug, and the other a hinged spring bar (Fig. 6)

By the time of the end of WWII watches with lugs were common,  and spring bars were patented,  but pocket watches were still worn by men.  As the Swiss export table in the earlier section shows, even in 1924, the swiss watch industry was exporting nearly 2 pocket watches or movement cases, to every wrist watch. But in 1930 the Swiss pocket watch and wrist watch export numbers were 6.2 million each.

HISTORY CONCLUSION OF NATO WATCH STRAP

By the end of WWI, the future use of spring bars had just been patented, but not implemented.   Watch straps were still focussed on fixed lugs and wristlets on pocket watches.

Forebears of the NATO “Straps, Wrist, Instrument” category, both the NATO Bund strap NSN 6645-12-145-6415, and the NATO nylon strap NSN 6645-99-124-2986 had been inactive military use.

The Tulsa World proclaimed on April 23, 1919 that the wrist-watch was here to stay.

“The war has made the world safe for men who wear wrist-watches. A red-blooded masculine person today can appear on the streets, wearing a wrist-watch without the danger of incurring a sneer or a brick. Before the war, the wrist-watch was a badge of effeminacy. The man who affected one was looked on as a fop, a simp or a sissy.”

The only question now was, what strap to wear it on.

THE GRAIL

The Spring bar articles include a grail watch at the end.  This article is on WWI era NATO strap history, and so the grail strap has to be the  E.J.Pearson and Sons Victor, the granddaddy of the NATO strap.

The Victor Reg. No. 529336 provides all the necessary DNA to the NATO Nylon strap NSN 6645-99-124-2986.

The grail strap, a NOS Victor model 529336 below is 205cm long and 9mm wide.

Here it is on a silver watch with shrapnel guard.

Image courtesy: Auckland War Memorial Museum

CREDIT

Credit for the featured image is HOROLOGIST007.   He and two other users of Watchuseek, bobbee and Literustyfan have a wealth of knowledge on this subject which I have tried to draw together from the history and perspective of the NATO watch strap.   David Boettcher of Vintage Watch Straps also has considerable expertise. If I have failed to give them specific credit for their images which are in the public domain, I apologise, but I could not have written this article as quickly without their enthusiasm for the watches of the period, if not the straps.

THE CLASSIC ZODIAC SEA WOLF

The first diver’s watch with a rotating bezel, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was announced at the Basel Fair together with the Fifty Fathoms from Blancpain in 1953. Both are credited with being the first commercially available diver’s watch.   However, the Zodiac was rated at 10 atmospheres (339 feet) and was more highly rated than the Blancpain 50 fathoms (300 feet).

THE EARLY SEAWOLF – COUNT DOWN BEZEL

The earliest models had an external bidirectional steel bezel, and a pre-Sea Wolf prototype model is shown below.  This is signed 10 Atm (339 feet) below the Zodiac logo, and name Zodiac, but has a plain screw-down case back.

The dial has numerals at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 with fluted indices elsewhere.  The numerals have been inked over.  The bezel is elapsed time, with numerals at 45, 30 and 15.   The hands are broad lumed Dauphine shape.

This pre Sea Wolf was model number 691 with the AS1361 movement.

An early signed Sea Wolf production model is shown below, now with a count down bezel.   Sea Wolf in cursive replaces 10 Atm beneath Zodiac on the dial.

It is shown with the original box below, with the Zodiac Oyster style stretch link bracelet

The original “SWISS” signed white dial below has developed a pinkish-orange patina.  The original radium (signified by “SWISS” on the dial) on both the hands and the dial is intact.  Over time the Dauphine hands often lost their radium and became skeletons.

The bezel is coin-edged plated brass and has numerals at 15, 30 and 45, and often shows brass at the edges due to wear.

The model number for the early Sea Wolf is 699, found inside the back screw down case back.

The arabic numerals at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 are interspersed with fluted steel baton indices, and the index at 12 is a double trapezium.

The 10 Atm designation on the prototype above is reflected on the screw down back reading ZODIAC SEAWOLF WATER TESTED 10 ATM ESPECIALLY, together with the Zodiac gun sight logo.

The screwdown back is shown above.

The model serial number is engraved between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

The serial numbers of metal bezel models generally run from 122xxxx to 192xxxx The case back is engraved “ZODIAC SEAWOLF  WATER – TESTED  10 ATM ESPECIALLY” along with the Zodiac emblem.

The inside of the case back is stamped “Zodiac Ltd” followed by “Le Locle Swiss,””ACIER,””INOXYDABLE” and “699.”

The 17 jewel unadjusted Swiss “Zodiac Ltd.” stamped AS 1624 automatic movement is shown above.  After winding the sharply threaded, Zodiac signed crown 39 full revolutions the movement had a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.

This watch measures approximately 34 mm excluding the crown, approximately 37 mm including the crown and approximately 17.5 mm between the lugs.  Case thickness, measured from the bottom of the case back to the top of the bezel, is approximately 7 mm.  Including the crystal case thickness, this measures approximately 9.5 mm.

Zodiac used A. Schild movements and the 17 jewel AS1624 was used by Zodiac and Ernest Borel.  This AS1700 movement was also produced as 1580, 1641,1681 and 1709 and other model numbers are seen on Sea Wolf rotors.

A white dial version is shown above.  This is a later model 699 and has the count down bezel but the dial now has triangular indices at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock with applied numerals inserted into the lume.

The early Zodiac movement (AS1624 without hacking) which predates the calibre  70-72 movement. The AS calibre 1624 was developed in the early 1950s, and runs at 18,000 bph with a running reserve of 42 hours.  Zodiac, in conjunction with Doxa, Eberhard, Favre-Leuba, and Girard-Perregaux, later refined AS base calibres to produce the Zodiac calibre 70-72 used in subsequent model Zodiac Sea Wolf.

For reference, the Blancpain had an elapsed time bakelite bezel also marked at 15, 30 and 45.   The initial advertising referred to the mil-spec model. <LINK>

 

SEA WOLF “NORMAL” BEZEL

Early count down bezel Sea Wolf watches are rare, and the replacement bezel from the mid to late 50’s is much more common.  The bezel was still plated brass.

Advertisements showed that both men’s and lady’s Sea Wolf models existed with this revised bezel, but lady’s watches are rarely found intact.

The new bezel could be considered either elapsed time or count down, as only 30 was marked on the dial, this time facing outwards, not inwards as for the models above (both Zodiac and Blancpain) and 0 to 15 minutes were marked with dashes and triangles.

Below is the revised bezel.   The watch retained the dial from the model shown above with broad lumed dauphine hands.  The dial below still reads “SWISS” below 6 o’clock

The 699 model designation continued but the case back changed to a press fit rated initially at 10 atmospheres, later becoming 20 atmospheres. 

This watch has the AS1624 movement.

Below is a black dial model with a gold plated bezel, again with broad dauphine hands. The triangle in the bezel is sometimes wider, and lume filled as above and below.

The ZODIAC name,  logo plus “SEA WOLF” in cursive are on the top dial at 12 o’clock.

“AUTOMATIC” in cursive is at 6 o’clock and “SWISS T < 25 MC” is on the bottom of the dial.

This represents a change from “SWISS” with radium lumes, to a model emitting less radiation with tritium lumes.   T < 25 MC represents an emission of less than 25 millicuries of radiation.

The advertisement above, shown with a black dial model explains the new press-fit case Silic seal, and other aspects of watertightness of the new model.

The diagram demonstrates how the round Silic sealing ring gasket is compressed into a triangular void between the case and the back. If the pressure increases on the back with depth, the compression of the Silic increases, together with the watertightness. However, the case back is consequently often very difficult to remove after use.

The glass is held in by a metal ring which compresses the glass against the case to provide a watertight seal.

The winding crown has a self-lubricating waterproof washer.

 The model had black edged broad lumed dauphine hands.

The 10 ATM case back was engraved on the flat, while the 20 ATM casebook was engraved on the slope.

The watch above has the snap-shut type back.  Engraved on the watch back is Zodiac  Seawolf, (with the Zodiac cross-hair symbol), 10 ATM Especially Water-Tested.

10 ATM case backs are rare, and 20 ATM backs are common. Engraved on the slope of the 20 ATM  watch back is : Zodiac  Seawolf, (with the Zodiac cross-hair symbol), 20 ATM Especially Water-Tested

Zodiac later included a central back bone in the hands to assist in retaining the lume.  This was not always successful.

At some point about 1961 the calibre 70-72 17 jewel movement was introduced and the inside back case was engraved 702-916.

“AUTOMATIC” in cursive is at 6 o’clock and “SWISS T < 25 MC” is on the bottom of the dial.

The signed 17 jewel Zodiac calibre 70-72 automatic movement was introduced in 1961, and has an AS1687/1688 calibre base, and runs at 21600 bph with a running reserve of 40 hours. The movement is hackset, and the calendar function is quickset (old style). This very successful AS calibre, later with 21 jewels was produced under the Communautee Horlogere de Precision, and was also used by Doxa, Girard Perregaux, Favre-Leuba, and Eberhard & Cie. for their men’s automatics during the 1960’s.

The AS1624 movement gave way to the 70-72 series and became model numbers 702-916 for the no date version and 722-916 Datomatic below.

The 70-72 movement family was based on the manual wind calibre AS 1687/1688.

The automatic mechanism was a joint development of Doxa, Eberhard, Favre-Leuba, Girard-Perregaux, and Zodiac.

Ranff specifies for the family:
21600 bph:
61: manual wind
68: manual wind, date
70: automatic
72: automatic, date
74: automatic, calendar
75: automatic, 24h display, date
76: automatic, day, date
36000 bph:
78: automatic, date
86: automatic, day, quickset date
88: automatic, quickset date

The first model the 702-916 had no date and had dauphine hands with broad lumes.   The lume material was prone to falling out, and the hands were changed to have a central spine.

The hands now commonly had a backbone.  This model has the wider lume filled triangle on the bezel.   Model numbers progressed to 732-916.

SEA WOLF DATOGRAPHIC

In the early 1960s the Zodiac acquired a date complication, and the Sea Wolf Datographic was launched.   The model number inside the back case was 722-916.

Datographic advertising in the June 1962 Playboy referred to the Adventurer’s Watch ….in and out of the water, with an 17 jewel automatic.

Early models still had the broad lume dauphine hands from the no date Sea Wolf but most had backbone dauphine hands.   Broad lume triangle featured at 0 on the bezel.

 Flexible expanding bracelet on original watch

Inside case back reads 722-916

The watch was popular with GIs serving in Vietnam, and was advertised in 1966 – 9 armed forces newspapers.

The advertisement below reads :

Most popular watch in 3/4 of  the world

 3/4 of the world is underwater. In that world, skindivers have made the self-winding Zodiac Sea Wolf their undisputed first choice. Big. luminous, easy-to-read dial. Tested and guaranteed for waterproofing and accuracy 660 feet underwater. Sweep second hand and movable bezel to tell your time under at a glance. Unbreakable lifetime mainspring and balance staff. There’s no better watch, no better value for active sportsmen. Men’s or ladies’; black or white dial; Model 1750 W, $110.

BAKELITE – WHITE OR LIGHT BLUE BEZEL 

The models with a white or light blue bezel are 1750B and 1750W and the serial numbers of these bakelite bezel models generally run from 192xxxx

Usually, a 72B movement is used.  The model number is 722-946.

The advertising pamphlet from the period is shown below.

The right hand side (front cover) advertises the Super Sea Wolf, no. 1796 for $150, also Datomatic models nos. 1763 (gold), 1750B (black), and 1750W (white). The left hand side (back cover) advertises nos. 1781B, 1781W, no date 3080B, 3080W, and also Ladies Sea Wolf, nos. 2062B and 2062W.  The pamphlet also lists the Sea Wolf Features. Most watches are priced at $100 to $110.

1763 GOLD 

Zodiac Sea Wolf two-tone yellow gold plated and stainless steel watch with original two tone jubilee style bracelet.

1750W

A white bakelite bezel, white dial model, with contrasting lume at 0 on the bezel.

The rarer no date version 3080W is below.

Below is the light blue bezel model.

1750B

Below is the black dial 1750B with white bezel.

Above is the no date 3080B model.

The 72B movement was used in the bakelite bezel model with date and 72 movement without date.

A famous example of a watch also using this movement is the very rare Girard-Perregaux Observatory Chronometer.

However, despite the pedigree, as explained in Steve Kings Blog the offset cannon pinion is a problem for this 72B movement.  “To most of us, the term “offset cannon pinion” sounds like a jumble of seemingly unrelated words, but to a Zodiac collector it’s an all too familiar and dreaded part within their timepiece. It causes a thoroughly annoying problem, and worse than that, it is a long obsolete and out-of-production part. While decent Sea Wolfs can be purchased in the $200 to $300 range, an offset cannon pinion will run you about $80 on eBay, if its available.”

This leads to the unbelievably annoying problem that the mechanism works perfectly, but the minute and hour hands will not advance.

The 1750 models are shown at the top in the pamphlet above, but adjacent, using the same case numbering is the orange 1781B.

A very rare ladies Sea Wolf is shown on the bottom left of the pamphlet and below.  Model 2062B.   This is 30mm diameter, and has the Cal. 46-47 movement, case back model number is 472-346.

 1781W/B

This next model also used the 72B movement, and carried 722-946 on the inside case back, which otherwise was identical to the 722-926.

This had an orange chapter ring, and came in black dial with rectangular indices, with no numerals.  The date window was framed in orange.  The hour hand is white with 2 lumes, and the minute hand is orange with one lume. The crown protruded from the case and was easily damaged.

The white dial version with a black hour hand and the original bracelet is shown below.

All Zodiac Seawolf models have the serial number engraved in the case between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

Rolex Watch forum: Frogman4me

ZODIAC 53 SKIN

Although Zodiac made other Sea wolf models, they deviated from the long-run classic style and are not covered in this article, and even the 1781W/B only really pays homage to the bezel and movement.    Some can be seen in the advertisements above.     The SST 36000 coffin or bullhead case model 862-952 with the hacking Cal. 86 movement is perhaps the most interesting.

Zodiac fell on hard times, but the brand is now part of the Fossil group stable, and in 2015 the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Skin was released as a heritage model.   Curiously this does not say Sea Wolf on the dial, or the back case but otherwise has many design features of the early Sea Wolf Datomatic.  The series is ZO92xx and is easily found on the internet.

RECOMMENDATIONS 

The Sea Wolf has stayed true to its classic looks for a long period of time and has always been affordable.  However good examples are becoming hard to find.

THE KEEPER

The keeper would be something like the NOS orange Sea Wolf shown below.  While a deviation from the classic dial, the orange chapter ring makes this a very desirable watch, although difficult to maintain.

Expect to pay $1500+/- for a good example.

Image Vintage Zodiacs: Nalu

THE GRAIL

The grail would be first or second-generation model 699.   Decidedly rare.

Generally, the no-date Sea Wolf is slightly more desirable and reliable than the later push-in quickset date Datographic version, and the early model with the Arabic numerals on the count down is very rare.

Expect to pay $2000 for a pristine version.

Alternatively, a NOS version might be found in the original box in a similar price range.

INTRODUCTION

The aircrew who flew Helge Viking on the first commercial SAS Douglas DC-6B flight over the pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles on November 15, 1954 were each presented with a commemorative Universal Geneve Polarouter watch in 1954 (Ref 1).

At the same time, the Leif Viking took off from Los Angeles and carried out the reverse journey, with the planes passing one another near the North Pole.

Commemorative letters were posted to celebrate the occasion, post marking the cities where the planes landed on the journey.

Also, at the same time, Carlsberg also produced a commemorative Polar Beer.  The beer label is rare, and harder to find than the Universal GenevePolarouter watch, but one recently sold to a collector for USD 2.  The watch is much more sought after, and more valuable.

SAS had been experimenting with a polar route since November 1952 and needed to develop reliable navigational aids capable of operating near the North Pole, including antimagnetic chronographs.   Universal Geneve collaborated with SAS, and the Polarouter watch was developed in this period, some models of which were certified as chronometers.

This article deals with the initial calibre 138SS Polarouter, which was the forerunner of many models of Polerouter watches.

THE UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLAROUTER

The Universal Geneve Polarouter was partly designed by Gerald Genta at the age of 23.  It is reminiscent of the Grand Seiko with double curved lugs, and the images in this article show the classic lines of the model.

It was powered by the caliber 138 SS movement.

The movement used in the early Polarouter and Polerouter models was the caliber 138 SS. It was introduced by Universal Genève in 1948, first as caliber 138 with a subsidiary second and then with a central second as caliber 138 SS.  The caliber 138 SS measures 28.2 mm in diameter and 5.55 mm in thickness. Its balance makes 18,000 vibrations per hour. The self-winding weight oscillates 315 degrees between two springs acting as shock absorbers, the so-called bumpers. This mechanism only winds the mainspring during one motion, and this inefficiency meant the watch often needed hand winding. The caliber 138 SS has 17 jewels, a plain surface finish and is rhodium-plated. It is shock-proof and anti-magnetic. Despite the precision and reliability that was proven on duty for SAS, the movement was replaced by the Microtor movement after approximately one year of production, as this was a more efficient movement.

For an article on servicing the caliber 138SS see ref 2.

The name changed to Polerouter after a few months, and at the same time the screw in case back opening mechanism changed from 6 keys to a dodecagon.

The watch is 50m waterproof. The waterproof construction is achieved by a tension ring, and the tension ring variations are a feature of the many dial combinations.

The Polerouter was assembled in a case with a screw back, with the movement, the curved dial, the tension ring, and the crystal.   There was plenty of opportunities to vary the combinations of dials and bezels.   There were also three case types, stainless steel, 300 micron 18k gold cap, and 18k gold.

The dials came with or without cross hairs, and with or without chapter rings.   The chapter rings were ticks, dots, or dots with lume at the 5-minute markers.  The bezels had raised indexes at the 5-minute markers and were plain metal, fluted between the indexes, or with fluted indexes, or coloured with bakelite applied between the indexes.   The hands were folded Dauphine, fluted Dauphine, Dauphine with triangular lumed inserts, or broad arrow.

Consequently, either during official production, or unofficial production, or in a watchmakers studio, the number of actual case, dial, hand and bezel combinations was huge.

The advertisement below shows some of the range of Polarouters.

The Stainless Steel cased Polarouters were the 20217 series, the 300-micron gold capped the 20214 series and the gold models the 10234 series, the 10234 models using different lugs on the case.

POLAROUTER 20217-1

The first model was 20217-1, released in 1954.

The 20217 series were in stainless steel cases.

This dial is black, with cross hairs, and no chapter ring.  The tension ring has raised broad index markers, with radial fluting between.  The crown is either signed U or unsigned.

Original model Polarouter dial below.

The movement was the Caliber 138SS, the so-called bumper model.   The bumper weight can be seen below between the two springs, and this can rotate about 315 degrees.

The case from the side with signed crown.

The advertisement for this model is below.

POLAROUTER 20217-2

This model has a white dial with a radial fluted tension ring.  The chapter ring has one tritium lume dot every 5 minutes.  Fluted dauphine hands with central groove are fitted.

The model below is a Polarouter, with a 6 key case back.

The name then changed to Polerouter.

Now with dodecagon screwback case.

The model above has a chapter ring with minute tick marks, but no lume dots at the 5 minute markers.

Below is a unique dial with Polerouter above Automatic.

POLAROUTER 20217-3

This model is all stainless, with a white dial and no chapter ring.  Narrow indices are used at 1, 2, 4, 5 7, 8, 10 and 11 o’clock.  Broader indices at 3, 6 and 9 and double index at 12 o’clock.   Dial signed Polarouter.

The dial changed later to Polerouter, as below, with broader more uniform index markers.

Dials tropicalise and this model has a chapter ring with ticks.

Then with a revised chapter ring, with dots at the 5 minute markers, and ticks elsewhere. Some models had one dot at 12, and others 2 dots at 12 and dodecagon sided case back.

Below is a single dot model.

This had an engraved duodecadon back

A later model with 2 dots at 12  on the chapter ring.

Dodecagon case back, now without model and serial number, marked SWISS and with the Universal Geneve logo.

POLAROUTER 20217-4

Radial fluting on tension ring, dial slightly tropicalised. Tritium dots at 5 minute markers on chapter ring, tick marks between.   Polarouter model below with narrow indices away from the crosshairs.   The advertisement above refers to black center, radium dots and grey marker ring.

This then changed to Polerouter, with thicker index markers on tension ring and open dots on the dial, and dodecagon screw back.

Now thicker index markers on tension ring and Polerouter on dial with closed dots.

Now with 2 dots at 12 on the chapter ring.

Triangular lumed hands, and dodecagon case back.

A unique black dialed SAS version numbered 20217-4 is shown below.   This has no ticks on the dial, similar to the 20217-6 model, and reads UNIVERSAL GENEVE AUTOMATIC similar to the 10234-1 Deluxe model.

The 10234-1 Deluxe model had a range of unique dials.

A broad arrow version with radial fluting and rectangular tick marks on the chapter ring was also produced, case back numbered 20217-4

POLAROUTER 20217-5

There was also a 20217-5 SAS version, without the cross hairs.

 

The watch below is on the original Universal Genève bracelet by Nevado

A 20217-5 model which had a  Cal 138 SS bumper movement is shown below.

This is marked Automatic in cursive and does not have Polerouter on the dial.

UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLAROUTER 20217-6

As mentioned in the introduction, the SAS aircrew were excited to be given Universal Geneve Polarouter watches to commemorate their journey.  This model again has a tension ring with narrow markings at 5 minutes, wider at 3, 6 , 9 and 12 o’clock.   Dauphine hands.  Domed crown, not marked.

Below is a gold Universal Geneve Polarouter Deluxe version with the SAS logo applied as discussed in the 10234-1 section below.

POLAROUTER 20217-7

This model has a stainless steel dial, and tick marks on the chapter ring.   Dodecagon case back.

The advertisement above reads polished steel center and marker ring.

POLAROUTER 20217-8  BROAD ARROW

Broad arrow hands with lume (Luminova? or nitebrite?) on hands and between indices on tension ring are a feature of this model.    The chapter ring has just tick marks, and the dial has cross hairs.

Below is a later version with dodecagon back, and radial fluting rather than tritium lume on the tension ring.  The lume was applied over the radial fluting.

POLAROUTER 20214-1

The 20214 models are gold cap 300 micron stainless steel, selling originally for USD150.  The grooves in the tension ring run uniquely in a circular pattern in the 20214-1 model.  Folded Dauphine hands.

POLAROUTER 20214-2

A 20214-2 model with a Universal Geneve Polarouter dial, also marked GOBBI MILANO.  The tension ring is not grooved.

Another later case 20214-2 marked Polerouter with narrower indices and radial grooves in the tension ring.   The advertisement above reads golden center and marker ring.

POLAROUTER 20214-4

This model is in 300-micron gold cap and with a chapter ring with open dots at the 5-minute markers, and one dot at 12.  Crossed dial.  Radial grooves in tension ring, and thin indices.  Dauphine hands with central spine.    Below is an early Polarouter model, with a thick crown.

The case is marked with the Universal logo, WATERPROOF with a 6 key screw.

Below is a later Polerouter model with a narrow crown, and wider index markers.

Below is a yet later version with dodecagon case back and WATERPROOF and Universal Geneve logo only, no serial number or model number.   2 dots on chapter ring at 12.

Below is a silver faced pink gold model, 20214-4 with dodecadon case back.  This has 2 dots at 12 on the chapter ring.

POLEROUTER 20214-6

The gold capped version of 20217-5 with white face, solid lume dots and two dots at 12 on the chapter ring.   This dial signed Polarouter, and also signed Chantilly Joyeros.

The gold-capped version of 20217-5 with argente dial, solid dots and 2 dots at 12 on the chapter ring.

POLEROUTER 20214-12

14K yellow gold-filled case with steel screw-down back, champagne and bronze dial, yellow gold Dauphine hands and sweep second hand.   Painted tension ring between indexes.

17 Jewel bumper automatic movement

POLEROUTER 20214-11 BROAD ARROW

POLEROUTER 20214-13 BROAD ARROW

A broad arrow version case number 20214-13, with lumed tension ring, and tick marks on dial.

POLEROUTER 20214-14

Broad arrow hands with triangular lume, and radial fluted tension ring between indexes.

Lume missing from the broad arrow hands below.

The advertisement above reads golden center and nitelite marker ring.

POLEROUTER 20214-?

This is an all-gold chronometre Polerouter.

Movement stamped 2106, and no marking “unadjusted” on movement.

Chapter ring has uniform dots.

POLAROUTER 10234-1 DE-LUXE

The 10234 series are all gold models with square, curved lugs.  Radially fluted indices.   18k gold.  A gold dial was featured in the 10234-1 model.   This model did not have a chapter ring or indices on the dial, just having the indices on the tension ring.

The model above has no cross hairs, and the model below does not have Polerouter Deluxe imprinted on the dial.

The chronometre wristwatch below was made around 1955. This watch is very rare as a chronometer.  The gold dial shows gold hands.  Watch case and crown are made of 18K gold. The watch has an original, black leather strap with a gold plated pin buckle. The watch case number is B10234-1; the movement number is 2548.

Sometimes these were not marked Chronometre on the dial.

The 138SS movement for the chronometres was stamped with the chronometere number, and UNADJUSTED was not used.

The advertising referred to the chronometre certificate.

Above 3 images courtesy Omega Forums user: Bill Sohne

Below is model 10234 1TL,  produced in 1958.  This is a rare model with a gold bracelet in shape of a belt with buckle (special patent).  This has a solid case, polished, screwed-down case back, and straight concave lugs.  Two-tone pink gold in two parts (special patent) bearing the effigy of King Faysal of Saudi Arabia, with fluted indexes on a polished outer ring.  Dauphine pink gold hands.

In April 1958, the Minister of Finance of Saudi Arabia, Mr Srurl El Sabban, visited the Universal Genève stand at the “Foire de Bâle” and subsequently ordered approximately 50 examples of this watch bearing the effigy of King Faysal. This model represents Universal Genève’s most advanced technology at the time, embodying 3 patented innovations.

The 10234-1 commemorative SAS version below is a Universal Geneve Polarouter and thought to be one of 3 in existence.

Enamel dial models 10234-1 were also produced, such as the Enamel Cloisonnè “Le Coq De France” dial.

And one featuring the Arabian Gulf.

A very similar watch with an engraved tension ring is shown below.

This is stamped 10232-1 as shown below, and predates the Polerouter as a 1952 model.

UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLAROUTER 10234-2  DE-LUXE

This model had an 18K gold case, and triangular index markers on the dial at 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes.

It featured a 6 notch screw in case back with only model 10234-2 and the serial number.

It had a beige or white dial, with and without crosshairs.  Early model with Universal Geneve Polarouter on dial below.

Below is a version with crosshairs.   The tension ring had radially ribbed indices.

UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLAROUTER 10234-3  DE-LUXE

This was an 18K pink gold version, marked inside case.   6 notch screw in case back with only model 10234-3 and serial number.   Black, now often tropicalised dial, but white dials perhaps existed.

Below is the gold version, 18k gold with the tropicalised dial.  The dial has cross hairs, and triangular fluted indices at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock.  There is no applied U logo. The lugs are square sided but curved.  The tension ring has radially fluted indices.

A black dial in good condition below.

Below, a dial stamped FRECCERO, but other dual stamped dials existed,  e.g. Joyeria Milos, Au Diademe Zurich and LE TRIANON HABANA.

POLEROUTER 10234-21   DE-LUXE

Black dial, with applied logo, but no markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock.

Personal engraving on 10234-21 screw in case back.

POLEROUTER 10244

HPC UNIVERSAL GENEVE POLEROUTER

A rare gold cased HPC chronometer version is shown below.  The lugs of this model are unique.  The case is by A. Gerlach, three-body, solid, polished and brushed, concave lugs, screw-down case back.    Model number 100105, usually fitted with a Cal 138C movement.

LADIES POLEROUTER

Although not a bumper model, the 27601-6 model is included below for interest.  The design similarities to the models above are obvious.  The watch is 21mm diameter with 9mm lug width.

A gold cap model was also produced.   Both had radial fluting on the tension ring.

The view from the side.

Cal.2365 movement was used, with 25 Jewels.

RECOMMENDATIONS

The Universal Geneve Polerouter with the 138SS bumper movement was only produced for about 1 year. Hence the models are relatively rare, as about 2500 units only were produced.  In addition to the relationship with SAS, some customised production for other clients was also carried out.  Bearing this in mind we have the following recommendations.

THE BEATER

Almost any of the Gerald Genta influenced watches are desirable, but perhaps something with the Universal Geneve Polarouter on the dial indicates the early intent of this watch.  The early Polarouters often have narrow indices on the tension ring away from the cross hairs.

THE KEEPER

A broad arrow version would be the keeper.   These are rare and currently, fetch several thousand dollars.   Below is a later version with lume on the hands but radial fluting on the tension ring.

THE GRAIL

Although not a Gerald Genta influenced design, the grail would be the gold SAS Polarouter issued as a commemorative piece for the SAS commencement flight from Copenhagen to and from Los Angeles.   This is close to a unique watch, and the price would be USD 10,000 plus.

REFERENCES

1.  https://scandinaviantraveler.com/en/aviation/1950s-over-the-north-pole

2. http://watchguy.co.uk/service-universal-geneve-calibre-138ss/